Chaos sometimes happens when I travel and in retrospect, it has created many of my most powerful trip memories. Life at home is rarely chaotic; it follows a fairly predictable rhythm and most days I’m a slightly boring creature of habit. Drop me into a foreign locale, though, and I’m usually (strangely) OK with all hell breaking loose after a few days of acclimation.
Kathmandu has to be the all-time winner for daily bedlam. On first arrival, the sensory assault here was overwhelming in an almost frightening way. As I left the airport late at night, alone, I wondered if my days of solo female travel needed to finally come to an end. A good sleep later, I was feeling intrigued by the cows in the street; a few days into it, I was charmed by the jumble of vendors jammed into alleys; and two weeks later, I was truly, madly in love with this colorfully outrageous and unruly city, even when an electrical box exploded a few feet away, sending me and dozens of Nepalis running for cover.
Athens – in full summer, blazing in 100-degree heat, and polluted by thousands of belching vehicles jam-packed into an overpopulated metropolis – ranks a close second. The chaos here was mostly car-based: the sharp and constant cacophony of horns, the shouting of drivers at one another, the parking on the sidewalks, and once, the abrupt and spontaneous gathering of four men to pick up and move, in a fit of pique, one of said cars parked on the sidewalk.
A skinny street in Istanbul, approaching Taksim Square, seemed placid enough – until we rounded a corner and came face to face with the beginnings of a protest. Waving signs and chanting mobs thickened in minutes, and the sudden crackle of firecrackers set my heart pounding, my head panicking, and my feet beating a retreat.
Egg-throwing mobs similarly interrupted a pleasant morning stroll in Buenos Aires, and hurtling rickshaws threatened to cut us down as we tried in vain to cross a main street in Lhasa. Sweaty clumps of young men pressed (a little more than necessarily) close to my college girlfriends and me on a morning ride to class on Madrid’s metro years ago, trapping us and blocking our ability to get off at our station. Perhaps most frightening of all, a dense crowd at Sydney’s Y2K New Year’s celebration caused us to lose our 12-year-old for almost an hour as we were sucked into its vortex at the end of the fireworks show.
We could play it safe. We could skip the crowds and the bigger cities. We could leave the kids at home. I could travel with others to some of the exotic but underdeveloped places I like to experience. Some of the chaos has been simply unpleasant, some horribly frustrating. A few situations have been potentially dangerous, and one or two downright scary. But when push comes to shove (literally!), the deepest imprints of my trips have often been the unexpectedly crazy moments that started the adrenaline pumping and the opening of the veins that take in the lifeblood of a place.
Chaos is good for the circulation. 😉 Hey – I was also in that insane (but happy) crowd at Sydney’s Y2K celebrations!! We were on that street that runs next to the Botanical Garden, almost down by the water. We could see the Opera House on our right and the Bridge (lit up with “Eternity”) on the left. How terrifying to lose your child there. Our decision to not drink turned out to be very wise once we realized that there were no toilet facilities. I’ll never forget the streams of urine (and vomit) running down the sidewalks. What a night.
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How incredible that you were in that small corner of the world at that momentous time! I was on the other side of the water, though, near the last train stop (from the North Shore) before the train goes over the bridge. We were in huge crowds and when it was all over, people surged toward the station and I was truly terrified as we got sucked this way and that with 6 children (not all mine!) from ages 6-12. My son simply got on a train, remembered our station in the northern suburbs and calmly waited there for us. Phew – it was a rough hour for me! (Yuck to the urine and vomit – I wonder if we had that on our side too and all I remember is losing my kid?!)
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Streams of urine and vomit huh? Sounds like NYE in London!
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Or NYE in any big city, but multiply it by 10 or more!
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I’d have to say I’m not a fan of big crowds, I can only take them in small doses. Too much of an introvert I guess.
I also spent a New Years Eve in Sydney, but it was the swan song for 1988, not 1999. We were on Bondi Beach, and it was a crazy party even then.
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I’m OK if I can still move. The crowd in Sydney where the kids were yanked away by the crowd movement, and being trapped on the train both freaked me out. But being part of a busy street scene, as in Kathmandu, doesn’t faze me; in fact, it energizes me!
I have to think any Aussie celebration is a pretty crazy good time!
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I can imagine getting separated from your kids would be terrifying, and I’m not even a parent! But I wouldn’t be surprised if you’d discussed the possibility with them and had a contingency plan.
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That opening shot is wonderful. And the train ride in Madrid sounds downright scary. Generally I don’t mind the crowds and have never had anything scary happen. I remember being on the Delhi metro when there had been a political rally. I’ve never been in a metro carriage packed so full, squished up against strangers. But it never felt scary, just a little uncomfortable. I think all big cities in third world countries are inevitably chaotic.
Alison
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Thanks, Alison! As I said to Dave above, the train and the Sydney New Year’s crowd were both scary because I couldn’t move at all. The inevitable kind of chaos you mention, the streets, the big cities in general, etc, are all part of the fun of travel for me!
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Yes, for me too.
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These a quite a few crowded and chaotic travel stories, all of which you made it out and found a way. You never really know what will hit you in a foreign country until it is so close or you get sucked up in it, like how you did in the crowds at Sydney’s Y2K celebrations and your daughter got lost for a bit. Great that you found her and reading your comment above, your son was very level-headed to wait at the station.
I empahtise with you traveling on a packed train with people rubbing up against you. I tend to avoid carriages – and trams – that are full, preferring to get on the next one. Then again, sometimes they are always full, such as after a big event like New Year’s or fireworks. Sometimes when you are in a place foreign or familiar, you really just have to go along with the crowd as chaos is chaos.
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Your last sentence sums it up – sometimes you just have to go along with the crowds! My natural inclination is to move toward a gathering of people to see what’s going on but to shy away from throngs that I could get stuck in. Unfortunately, the former can turn into the latter very quickly! (P.S. Only my son got lost, and he was the one who was smart enough to get on a train without us and just wait for us to catch up.)
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My dear, you are ready for the Philippines! Come here, I ll take you to the local markets ! Your post made me travel back to the times I was living in India and spent times in Nepal as well .. Sign of the times, all I am looking for now is forest and calm. I guess this has became my kind of exotism 😉 X
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Ha – you’re right! I guess I can tolerate chaos because it is not my everyday existence, as it has become for you in the Philippines. For me it’s still out-of-the-ordinary, a fun travel experience. In your situation I, too, would be craving peace!
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I guess that’s why we call holidays “break”. We appreciate them even more when they really break our routine ..
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Lex! I completely agree with you about loving chaos — especially Kathmandu. Like you, I have a powerful, visceral memory of my first time leaving that airport and entering into the wild, frenetic energy of that city. It was like nothing else I’ve experienced. I’ll never forget it, and now I crave those kinds of moments that leave me indelibly struck by the act of traveling. Those moments don’t happen very often, but when they do… wow. Love it. Great post!
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Thanks, Kelly! Hard to explain, but somehow all that chaos seems thrilling and exciting when it’s not part of our daily existence. I couldn’t handle it day in and day out, but it’s such a shot of adrenaline! I know you hiked the EBC trail, too – did you like Kathmandu better or worse when you got back? Strangely, I liked it better. I think I was just super chilled out and ready for anything!
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The longer I stayed, the more I loved Kathmandu. (But there was never a moment when I didn’t like it.) I would love to go back again. It had me at hello. 🙂
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Sometimes chaos is enticing, almost addictive I’d say, once – as you say – you get through the first moment of fear. For me it was the case in Marrakesh and Hanoi, but it could also get to your nerves, and that was Peru for me. Cities filled with cars with no respect for traffic lights, road signs, traffic police, and everyone busy honking their horns… Stalinist thoughts crossed my mind and my girlfriend was quickly returning to her Hunnic roots!
Well done to the 12 year old, a lot smarter than many adults!!
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I am getting a creeping feeling that Peru was not your favorite destination in a number of ways … but back to good chaos: yes, addictive is a good word. There is an energy in chaos, and from what I’ve heard Marrakech and Hanoi would be excellent examples of city craziness. I’m sure at some point busy metropolises will wear thin for me, but for now I still like a bit of that rush from time to time!
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Yes, it was nice but by far not my best shot… Still, every journey is an experience!
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In general growing up in Indonesia helps me deal with chaotic places better than my travel buddy, James, who grew up in Hong Kong. Most of the time I prefer places that are clean and orderly, and where public transport is reliable, because they are different from what I have to encounter in a daily basis here in Jakarta. But some places that are chaotic did leave deep impressions on me, and in fact I ended up loving some of them — Kathmandu is one example. However, India was a different story. I still want to return to the country, but now I know what kind of chaos India has in store.
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Your comment echoes that of a blog friend in the Philippines; I think for those of you who live with chaos day to day, these kids of destinations are not quite so appealing! You can deal with it better, but it’s just not the novelty it is for some of us. I haven’t really tested my tolerance for chaos in India, but I’m sure that’s the ultimate test!
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In my younger wilder days chaotic cities were all my rage, but by god, now my idea of a holiday is the remote jungle of the peruvian amazzon or something involving minimal people! Lol
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Haha – I totally get that! I’m a huge nature lover, too, and like being off the grid and away from people and noise and bedlam for a while. I guess I’m still OK with both as a once-in-a-while thing, but I’m sure the allure of crowds and noise will wear off over time.
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Some of those scenes do sound downright scary (especially losing your 12 yo for an hour). Shudder…I cannot imagine how you must have felt, but thank goodness all ended well. I too am drawn to the chaos, even though I’m a decided introvert and avoid crowds whenever possible. Though…lol…here in Seoul, it’s impossible. Last night, there was a protest to demand that our religious cult President step down, in Gwanghwamun Square, and a million people attended! I cannot even wrap my head around what a million people in that square would look like, but somehow I’m drawn to looking at the pics (and secretly wish I’d been there to see it!)
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My husband just told me (30 seconds ago!) about your protest there. Sometimes the world seems to be one giant protest these days … Meanwhile, how about this one? In Chicago a few weeks ago, there was a gathering of FIVE million people (the 7th largest in world history) to celebrate the Cubs winning the World Series. I was here in DC at the time, but I wonder if I would have joined a throng of that size? P.S. My son who got lost read my post and said he didn’t even remember that evening – guess he was not as traumatized as I was!
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Wow! 5 million people in one place… I can’t imagine. Thank goodness it was for a positive reason though. 🙂
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Traffic in Taipei is tops on my chaos list. The cab rides were scary enough; I certainly wouldn’t want to drive there. The older I get the more noises bother me, so my days of chaos may be waning. But then, ear plugs are getting better, so maybe there’s hope.
(how funny that your son didn’t remember getting swept away by the crowd)
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I was glad to hear the Sydney episode didn’t traumatize my son (at all!). I have not been to Taipei, but traffic ranks right up there on the chaos scale in many countries. It always amazes me when old women and mothers with children in tow step out into that bedlam and part the cars as if they were Moses. My daughter is feeling the traffic chaos these days in Ghana and after several months is still leery of stepping off the curb!
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Oh these big cities are exactly what I think of when I think of chaos. Istanbul to our list, perhaps because we have not been to Katmandu. The area you speak of in Istanbul is where we witnessed a car drive over three pedestrians. Cars, people, screaming, ambulances unable to reach the scene….chaos.
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Sue, your experience goes beyond chaos! That sounds like real horror. Big cities have two sides: the energy and excitement on one hand, and the out-of-control possibilities on the other. Then again, I guess I can’t just blame it on cities; we read about the tramplings on the hajj on some remote bridge, or the stampedes in sports stadiums … masses of humans anywhere, anytime can turn chaotic and even deadly. I’ve just written myself into a real aversion to crowds!
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I wonder if life at home is a bit more chaotic than life on the road these days 🙂 Interesting times. I am especially glad that the chaos in Katmandu did not bring your life as a solo female traveler to an end and that you found your child in Sydney. And I am definitely interested to hear more about those egg throwing mobs in Buenos Aires
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To answer your first question, yes, it’s a shitshow (to be blunt) but I’m trying not to read certain things or expose myself to as much of it as possible. Be glad you’re faaaarrr away. Give me a good unruly crowd at a tourist attraction any day!
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Limiting one’s exposure to it is wise. It can become all consuming if one is not careful.
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Love the descriptions of chaos in various locations. I particularly enjoyed your description of Katmandu. What comes to mind first and foremost for me, was just trying to cross the street at a busy roundabout in Delhi. A constant random force of cars, rickshaws, cows, motorbikes, people….
Peta
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Thanks, Peta! I have not been to India, but I know Kathmandu is often said to be very similar (but tamer, if that is possible!).
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I agree w you Lex – some of my fondest travel memories are from chaotic scenes that couldn’t be more different from my everyday life. Here’s to adventure that keeps the blood running!
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I sometimes wonder why I am so much more tolerant while traveling?! I suppose it’s just the effect of being in vacation mode – having naturally more chilled-out reactions to things that might drive me nuts when I’m worried about work and other daily annoyances!
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I had to smile at Anna! I too am more inclined to hide in a book or on a deserted beach these days. Then again, I remember the horror of losing a very small daughter on a crowded beach! And trying to cross a road in Athens to get back to the passport office when I’d lost mine and the flight home was in a couple of hours. There’s a lot to be said for the quiet life 🙂 🙂
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As much as I’ve been invigorated by chaos in the past, I’m more into serenity these days as well! I may have a few more plunges into hyperactivity left in me, but not as many as I used to.
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Lovely interpretation of chaos
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Thanks, arv! Some of these cities leapt immediately to mind when I saw the chaos prompt!
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That’s precisely what’s great about wpc! It surely helps you improve your skills and memory! Trying to recollect if you have something to fit in!
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One of many reasons why I avoid large crowds especially during celebratory times. Then again, perhaps a little chaos is good for the soul (as long as one is not responsible for herding a group of children as well)!
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Exactly! Chaos can be exciting but when it veers toward one’s children being at risk, it’s not so fun anymore. Thanks for visiting the blog and for your comment!
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Beautiful pictures! Loved reading your view of chaos.
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Thank you! I had fun thinking back about all those crazy experiences. Things that were scary at the time always seem so much more entertaining in retrospect!
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"[Soini] ei myöskään hyväksy, että lakialoitteen vastustajia kutsutaan suvaitsemattomiksi."Suvaitsemattomiksi kutsutaan niitä, jotka esittävät syrjiviä, herjaavia ja ala-arvoisia kannanottoja. Ei kai ole lakialoitteen puoltajien vika, että vastustajien ulostulo on pelkkää homofoobista paskanheittoa. Esittäkää kunnollisia argumentteja, tai painukaa v….
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