I’m short on fully-formed thoughts about Bhutan. There’s no real story here, just some impressions that are as disjointed as my memories from this trip seem to be for some reason.
The flight into Paro. It’s a doozy. By some accounts, Paro is the third most dangerous airport in the world. On nearly every list, it’s one of the top ten scariest. I manage to get a window seat for the thrill of descending into that valley and twisting and turning to land on the runway at the bottom.
Are we gonna scrape?!
The prayer flags. I love a good mess of prayer flags. And by mess, I mean that joyful jumble of color, caught in the wind, sending good thoughts up into the universe. Added bonus when these vibrant supplications are attached to swinging suspension bridges, my favorite Himalayan mode of passage.
Church and state. Buddhism and its often cheerful monks are ever-present, a perennially appealing backdrop to life in the Himalaya, and they exist here in relative harmony with an elected government and a king (and his father), who are impressive stewards of all aspects of Bhutanese life. National happiness is a holistic goal here, with a balance always being sought among economic interests, environmental concerns, health, education, living standards, and psychological wellbeing and resilience. Noble ideals, seemingly well carried out.
Color and geometry. I’ve always been a sucker for Himalayan art and architecture in their native habitat. A mash-up of colors and shapes I would not abide at home makes me inexplicably happy in this part of the world.
Animals, animals everywhere. Temple cats, bridge and courtyard dogs, and a few stray cows to boot. Most are well-fed, and all are secure enough to sleep just about anywhere.
The landscapes. I went to Bhutan for the mountains and the trails that lead up through those elevated rocks and trees. I may not have gotten the trek I signed up for, but I got plenty of altitude, exercise, and other views. I could/should do a whole post on our day hike to the Tiger’s Nest alone; people find it fascinating, and it was a fulfilling day with a very special prize at the end. But … maybe some other day!
One Foot Out the Door 
Beautiful pictures. We’ve been to Nepal and are thinking about Bhutan for 2020 so I would love to hear about your tour company, suggestions, etc. either in a post or emailing me directly.
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Thanks a lot! I would be happy to write to you directly. I’ve also been to Nepal (and Tibet) and I do have some feedback for you! I see your email at the bottom of your profile in my email, so I’ll try to get something out to you later this evening.
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Such a whirling burst of color , the flags complementing the swaying bridges. Please hang onto the rail daughter!!
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Back safe and sound, mother dear – and you know I have the balance of a mountain goat! I can never get enough prayer flags and was so happy to be back in a place where they were all over the place all the time!
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I would love to hear about the tigers nest. Beautiful pictures.
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Thanks! If I can get my mind to go back there and write it up well, I will do a Tiger’s Nest post! For now you can gaze at that last photo and wonder how we got there!
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That final photo is incredible. How and why do you build a structure in that location?
I was in Nepal many moons ago. Your story and photos brought back a lot of memories.
Neil
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Your questions about the how and why are what I kept repeating to myself as I walked up (and then down and back up!) into that monastery! Who the heck thought this up and how did they get it done? Until recently (as in, the 2000s), the path in was only one person wide; imagine carrying in the materials! They built this in the 1600s – unfathomable.
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This post didn’t feel disjointed at all. I found it gentle and interesting and evocative of all that Bhutan stands for. Gorgeous photos. I’d love to go there one day.
Alison
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Oh, thanks, Alison. For whatever reason (perhaps my keen disappointment with our guide and his decision on the trek?), my Bhutan trip feels disjointed in my head, and I’m finding it hard to assemble my thoughts on any one part of the trip in any detail. That’s OK with me, really; many people write about these places, and I can’t imagine anyone is out there waiting for one more! 🙂 It really was a beautiful and gentle place, and I know you would just love it for many reasons.
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Even though you didn’t get to do what you’d came for, you still saw some amazing things. I really like the photos under the geometry headline – so much color. And of course I like the cats. I liked this post. Thanks for sharing.
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Thanks, Jeff. I wish my color and geometry shots were sharper; for some reason I was always shooting up into the sun. (Plus this blog platform seems to be not uploading my photos in full resolution …?). Anyway, glad you liked the few cats since you are the cat photography master!
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It all looks so colourful and amazing!
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It is colorful for sure! My two takeaways were the incredible landscapes and the vibrant architecture. Together, they were a pretty unbeatable combo.
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So interesting to hear Paro is the third most dangerous airport in the world. It must have been quite a ride down but not so bad you couldn’t take steady pictures. Great view from the top 🙂 Lovely how you took us through Paro and more of the Himalayas. Quite a few strays everywhere. Good they are mostly well-fed and just sleepy on the concrete and sidewalks. This seemed like the different kind of trek but one where you walked among the locals and experienced life like they do 🙂
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Ha – yes, you are right, Mabel; we did get some different kinds of walks in! As a trekker, I did not find them satisfying physically, but we did very much enjoy the local color and vibe. I’m an animal lover, so seeing the largely happy strays made me happy amid all that colorful, old architecture!
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I completely agree with Alison. Your post still feels coherent to me, and it’s perfectly okay that it wasn’t written in longform. The photos brought me right back to Bhutan – I can almost smell the pine just by looking at your landscape shots. Even sitting in an aisle seat, the descent into Paro was thrilling. It really did feel like the plane was skimming the forests on the final approach! As for the color and geometry of Bhutanese architecture, I found Punakha Dzong to be the ultimate highlight. In my opinion, the interiors were even more ornate than those of the Forbidden City!
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I adored those thick pine forests. A huge plus of going to Punakha as a replacement for our Haa Valley trek was the chance to see not only a second type of pine tree but obviously that incredible dzong. I agree with you on its impressiveness and am very happy I didn’t miss it. Even the location of Punakha Dzong was a delight, right there at the junction of two rivers in that verdant valley. If I can get up the energy, I want to write one more post to talk about it as well as the Tiger’s Nest. Thanks for the positive feedback on my “little” post!
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Have you watched this video on YouTube about that dramatic landing, but this time from the cockpit? It’s exciting to see if from a pilot’s perspective (and to hear all the audio warnings, ha!). Here’s the link in case you’re interested: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-b5uJ2vtdA
On a side note, I’m usually not a big fan of painted wood carvings. But for some reason I really loved the ones I saw in Bhutan. After visiting Nepal and Bhutan and enjoying my time in both countries, now I’m really curious about Tibet.
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I loved the Youtube video of the landing! I could see the same green hills that I was sure our wing was going to clip. I’ve read different numbers, but the latest figure I’ve seen is that only 17 pilots are approved to land at Paro as it takes very special skills and training. I’ve now landed at two of the freakiest runways ever (Lukla in Nepal was the other), and I don’t necessarily need any more!
If you could see my house (neutral, clean-lined, almost modern) you would never believe how much joy those colorful (almost garish) carvings give me in some Himalayan/Buddhist places! You MUST go to Tibet someday. It is Bhutan and Nepal times ten, with a similar vibe, but with a mystique all its own. The Potala Palace is out of this world (and I’m not a palace lover), the Jokhang temple may be the most spiritual place I’ve ever been, and the people, from modern guides to circumambulating pilgrims, are the kindest and friendliest souls.
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I’m even more convinced to go to Tibet now.
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I know you didn’t have the trip you’d hoped for but my gosh these photos show a land of pure magic. They set my imagination on fire. Fully formed thoughts are overrated 😉These vignettes are wonderful. And that airport…wow!
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It WAS a special place, without doubt. I don’t know why I can’t rummage up the words to fully describe it. I tend to digest things as fragments of thought and feeling; usually, I can reformulate them (and enjoy doing so) for others’ consumption, but this time it’s just not happening. Thanks for the positive feedback on the shorter vignettes. I wanted to document at least this much for myself for the future.
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The colors! The architecture! The scenery! The cats and dogs! And oh my goodness–the prayer flags. All so beautiful. Not the trip you planned, perhaps. But, maybe the trip you needed?
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I would agree that a forced slow-down can do me some good! I also met five really great new people in my small group and that in itself was a nice bonus. I’m glad some of the wonders of this country were apparent in this teeny little post!
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oooohhhhh….Gorgeous landscapes and those prayer flags are captivating. Bhutan has been on our list for so long and I’m not sure when we’d get there. 😦 I’m drooling!
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It’s not the easiest place to just pop in to, but I hope you can get there sometime! I think you’d love some of the walking options there (maybe not the high-elevation treks with tent stays, but I don’t know!). It’s so peaceful and clean.
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I know what you mean. Ladakh and Sikkim (even Dharamshala) were rough for me. I don’t know how I survived. I fared better in Taiwan, but it was such a short stay and doesn’t compare. Ah…I have a lot of time to think about it. I’ll enjoy your pictures until then. 🙂
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I will never forget flying in Nepal from Jomson too Pokhara. I was so petrified that all I could do was hold on to my prayer beads and I’m not a religious person. I read that many flights crash in Nepal and I will admit as much as I travel I HATE small planes and am not even sure if I can do it again. So your flight in Paro brought back memories and fears that maybe I’d be too afraid to do it. Other than that the prayer flags and everything about the Buddhist culture really resonate with me. I found it so mystical and soothing to the soul. I really want to hear more about your trip. I’m curious why people are so happy. Is Bhutan as poor as Nepal? Are people suffering as much?
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The flights are very different from the Nepal ones. Lukla was terrifying – smaller plane and the runway is on a cliff. And, as you note, Nepal does not have a good record with flight safety. But in Bhutan, the scariness feels manageable; the flights in are on jets, and a very small number of pilots and airlines (17 pilots as of 2018 and only 2 Bhutanese airlines) are even allowed/licensed to fly in and out. They are very well trained and to my knowledge, there have not been crashes in spite of the dangerous terrain. They simply cancel flights if they can’t make a visual approach or takeoff, and they use manual controls so they are really in charge.
If Buddhist culture resonates with you (as it does me!), you would love Bhutan. You can feel the peacefulness and devotion to the religion everywhere. But here’s where Bhutan is different: that religion and its adherents work hand-in-hand with the government and the king (a beloved young man who, with his father, turned power over to a democratically elected government). In seeking a balance between material progress and spiritual health, they have among many other things safeguarded the environment and watched out for the poorer members of their society. There is no homelessness here, no street begging, no plastic bags floating around, no hawkers at temples. They are very consciously trying NOT to become like Nepal. That’s why you have to go in with a guide; they want to keep tourist numbers down (and grungier tourists out, honestly) and they want visitors to understand their priorities and honor them. I think people are happy because they are educated, cared for, in a clean and healthy environment, allowed and encouraged to be spiritual, etc. It can probably sound or maybe even feel a bit controlling, but so far it seems to be working well for them.
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Thanks for the reply Lexi! Sorry it took so long but I always forget to check the notifications here. I would LOVE LOVE to go to Bhutan. It really sounds like my kind of place. Do you have a company you would recommend? What time of year? I don’t know when I will do it but maybe it can be done before my 50th in a couple of years. 🙂
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Based on my Himalaya experiences in general, I really think fall might be better (October). Spring just seems a lot more iffy. Several other blogging friends used a company called Bridge to Bhutan, which they really liked. Because I wanted more of a hardcore hiking and trekking experience, I used a mountain trekking outfitter, but based on some of the decisions made on my trip, I’m not 100% sure I would recommend them (even though I have had 5 other decent trips with them). I don’t like to either sell or trash companies here on my blog, but when you are seriously looking, feel free to email me!
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Ok! Once I finally get to the point when I can go I will email you! It may be awhile but I’m dreaming of it! 🙂
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Ohhh. Are those… doors??
I have a confession to make: without much hesitation I made your door photo my desktop background! It was stronger than me! 😉 I’ve never done such a thing before. I hope you allow it, if not you’ll have to come over and punish me in some way. 😀
I love the flags as well, and art, and scenery, and not to mention the dogs!! What a country, as if I ordered to have it built. Everything applies! 🙂 Gorgeous photos, Lexi!
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I feel honored! Those doors captivated me. The range of blues, all kind of washed out and banged up, really caught my eye when I went out alone for an early morning walk through the capital city one day. I like your list of all the wonderful things in Bhutan; I felt the same, especially about the dogs! 🙂
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Your photos are fabulous, Lexie (especially the one shot from behind the red clothed monk 🙂 ) and I don’t find this disjointed at all. Has there ever been a more beautiful place? It’s pure theatre! And I smiled at those flapping prayer flags on the bridge- I might have said one! 🙂 I’ve never seen them in real life, only photos. That’s how lucky you are 🙂 🙂
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That monk was doubly wonderful because he stopped to talk with us. He had made the pilgrimage from eastern Bhutan to see the Tiger’s Nest, and he and a companion were snapping photos like the rest of us visitors! One of the things I love about Buddhism is that the monks are so … human, I guess. They are humble and friendly, and they are often open to a chat! I know I am so lucky to have been to the Himalaya a number of times; the countries and cultures there really draw me in, and even though it takes years to save up the money to go back each time, it’s worth it to me!
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🙂 🙂
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Wow, wow, and wow. Incredible photos. So astounding at the location of the monasteries on the cliff faces. Didn’t anyone trust anyone in the old days?
Dave
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Haha – they did seem to want to get as far away from other people as possible! I think I might chalk it up to a desire for solitary meditation versus attack, though (as I’m sure you know 🙂 ). What amazes me is that they could build it there in the 1600s when the path was one person wide and the tools and transportation were not quite what they are today. Truly amazing place, and a great hike in!
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Yes! I like this post, Lexie. A scattering of thoughts and beautiful photos. It seems right to do it this way under the circumstances. I love the animals and the colors. The prayer flags and suspension bridges. The photo of the monk taking a photo of the temple built into the rocks is fantastic. And, a country that is ruled by a king caring for his people? Amazing! The inscription under his photo says it all. I’m surprised it’s actually working out that way. Again, this collection of experiences and captures is awe-inspiring!
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I’m sure there are many, including the Bhutanese themselves, who doubted the sincerity of the king when he turned power over to the people in the first place. Like anywhere, there are surely tensions, but they truly seem committed to cooperation among the government, the king, and the Buddhist monks. The young king is so loved! He lives simply, as does his father, who is still alive but abdicated to let his son become king in 2006. At the same time, it was apparently the first time in history that a monarch voluntarily gave up his power to allow for political reforms and elected leaders. The whole Gross National Happiness thing sounds hokey, but it is codified and taken quite seriously. I love it!
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The wonderful qualities of life in Bhutan that you catalogued made me curious about the country’s size. I discovered that the population of Houston’s roughly three times that of Bhutan — whether some of those qualities that make it such an appealing place are scalable intrigues me.
I liked the format of this post very much. For one thing, as a non-hiker, what you showed seemed much more accessible — to me. There’s so much here to love, from the colors, to the animals, to the painted buildings. Strangely, the architecture and painting reminded me of Texas’s painted churches. Despite differences in the faith communities and cultures, there seems to be a resonance there. I’m been trying to get to the area of get some more decent photos of the painted churches before posting about them — interior photos need to be redone! — but when I put that post together now, I’ll have something else to think about.
I’ve another post I want to do on Lagniappe, featuring the Lin Sohn Buddhist temple in Santa Fe — Texas, not New Mexico. It’s just down the road from me. It’s much closer than Bhutan, that’s for sure!
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Population (in lower numbers) surely makes a huge difference in a country’s ability to enact policies like those in Bhutan. The absence of previous self-determination probably also makes it easier there than in a place where people have long been used to having the right to largely do as they like. Much as I value our individual freedoms, it is sometimes easy to look at places that simply say “no plastic” (and everyone obeys) and feel envious. Everything is just so much harder when there are so many millions of people with so many millions of their own ideas!
I look forward to seeing your churches! I did look them up, and from a color standpoint, I can see why the Bhutanese buildings might remind you of them. The Texas churches, though, are so much more ornate beyond the colors; Bhutanese (and Himalayan) architecture tends to be much blockier, and the walls themselves are generally thick, plain, whitewashed slabs.
On a slightly different topic, do you know about the connection between Bhutan and UT-El Paso? I think I’ll write a post on it someday, but the connection is fascinating! See here (https://www.utep.edu/about/bhutan.html) if you can’t wait to read about it! 🙂
Finally, I will have to add that Santa Fe, TX temple to my list of local destinations!
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The photos are amazing! The places they built monasteries – what incredible feats! The descent into Paro sounds brilliant and scary!
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Thanks, Andy. Yeah, can you even imagine hauling the building materials in to that rock ledge in the 1600s?! Crazy. Both of your adjectives about the flight are spot-on; it’s frightening and thrilling at the same time!
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Love every one of your photos. You may have felt disjointed during the trip, but your eye and hand knew what they were doing with those compositions. There’s so many wonderful stories peeking out of each one. What an experience this must have been for you and I think like most such, it will be months even years before some of the lessons and messages crystallize for you. Allow the fantastic jumble to just marinate for as long as it needs to.
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My Bhutan impressions are indeed marinating! In time, I hope they make a flavorful stew of memories because I know there was more there than I am able to put together in my heart and mind right now.
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Disjointed is just an excuse to write a lot of little stories, instead of one big one. And when all those little stories add up, we’ve all enjoyed more of your trip, and you end up with a bigger, richer story.
Love the pictures. Just these suggest a good trip.
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Glad to hear all those snippets coalesced into something coherent! It was a very nice trip, and though I took many fewer photos than usual, I got a few small treasures here and there.
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I know how disappointed you are about the trek Lexie but it looks like you had some other wonderful experiences. Nothing wrong with the format of this post either; I find it refreshing. Sometimes a longer narrative just doesn’t feel right. Your photo of the monk taking a photo of the cliff shrine is great and I’m with you on the aesthetics…the doors are beautiful.
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Luckily, I can usually find something to like almost anywhere! Not that most people are straining to find that in Bhutan, which is really an extraordinary place. I’m glad a few words and photos were still of interest to most readers since I am solidly in a blogging rut at the moment! Happy weekend to you!
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Holy sh*t. I would have been cowering in my seat on that landing (if I’d been able to join you for the take off). I could feel that nervous tingling in my feet as my fear of heights sensation manifested with your arial photos. Yet there was a faint voice in my head saying ‘weeeeeeee”. I’d love to visit Bhutan and hope my ‘little adventure craving’ voice someday drowns out that louder ‘voice of fear’ that keeps me grounded. The colorful prayer flags architecture and commitment to National Happiness here have turned up the ‘adventure voice’ volume.
I do hope you’ll indulge us with a post on the day hike to Tiger’s Nest. The teasers here are magnificent and leave me craving for even #moreplease..
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I’m not a particularly nervous flier, but I still may have let out a little yip as the left wing outside my window seemed perilously close to that wooded mountain! You will simply have to take an aisle seat and block the idea of the flight from your mind. There are only a few pilots they even let fly in and out (and they are so well trained), so you will be in good hands. I don’t think there have been any accidents there in spite of its dangerous location. Someday I hope to get up the energy to write about the Tiger’s Nest … or anything else!
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Bhutan is soooo high on my list of places to go! I love this idea that national happiness is the goal… and that it’s actually carried out with some success. Not an easy accomplishment.
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It really is pretty amazing. Then again, they have very few people, relatively speaking, and that always makes people-centered policies easier. Still, even the bias toward putting people and their happiness first or on par with other factors is pretty damn enlightened. It’s a very cool place, and I hope you get to go soon!
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Your photo out the window toward the mountain, while on approach, brings back jittery memories of landing there and threading through that incredible valley. Our pilot did one last wing dip on the left-hand side before we touched down and I’ve always wondered WHY?! (I was seated on the right.) I loved this post and your photos — especially the black and orange door. Details can make a complete story, as they do here, allowing the reader to draw his/her own conclusions. Bhutan is unlike anywhere else and each element is compelling on its own — architecture, landscape, cuisine, national happiness, traditions, etc. It’s understandable that you’re still putting your thoughts together. For such a small country, there’s a lot to write about, in addition to your own impressions. No pressure! 🙂 Hope you’re having a great weekend, Lex!
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Thanks, Kelly! Bhutan feels so far away now – mentally, I mean. It was a strange interlude being there with five people I didn’t know and having a few things go awry; I remember it so fondly, yet for the first time ever, I feel no urge to write more about it. So be it! I feel no stress about it and am back to all sorts of new adventures on our own shores. (I actually thought about going way out of my way recently when I was in the Bay area and showing up at Lake Tahoe and ferreting you out! It was a crazy idea and obviously I did not follow through! Someday when I have more time …) Hope you and J are still enjoying your time on the lake; I will be eager as always to hear what you’re up to next! I’ve got some big hikes coming up out west in August, but other than that I am keeping Southwest and United airlines in business on short weekend hops all over the place!
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Bhutan looks incredible! And I love how content all the animlas look!
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Seriously! These were some of the chillest animals I’ve ever seen. Bhutan was a very special little place; glad you found it so through my post!
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Wow Lexie! Your photos of Bhutan are mind-blowing! Really excellent! I share your sentiments on prayer flags – they always make me smile and make my heart feel hopeful. They were ever present when we were in Nepal, as were the cats, dogs, and cows. Thanks for introducing me to Bhutan – another bucket list destination. All the best, Terri
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Thanks, Terri! It was certainly a top-shelf destination as far as photography goes! (And for other reasons, too.) The combination of dramatic mountains and skies, all festooned with those wonderful flags, had me and my camera working overtime. It is very reminiscent of Nepal in a lot of ways, but so very different in its approach to tourism. Very cool place – hope you get to go someday soon!
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I’m kind of bummed this post wasn’t all about the Tigers Nest 😉
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Hahahaha. When that inspiration strikes, I will let the entire blogging world know!
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😂😂😂😂
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Lexi, who knows if this comment will catch you in time and where, but I wonder if I may repost your photo of blue doors from this post in my tomorrow’s post with favourite photos. There will be three by you and two other bloggers and the rest will be mine. I will link to this post and sign your name, of course. Feel free to say no. All well to you!
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I would be honored and flattered! Hope you are good! I am off on another road trip tomorrow morning so I’m glad you caught me!
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Yeah! I’m glad I caught you too. Sounds most excellent. All good here. The heat is coming. Enjoy your trip!
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