We put Hawaii aside in our minds years ago, dismissing it as a destination for people who didn’t like to be as active as we did. Old people, we thought. Maybe corporate conventioneers. Let’s use our fit and functional years to climb steep paths and take 15-hour flights and sleep in tents and apply for difficult visas, we reasoned. Hawaii will be there when we can no longer do all those things, when we want to go sit on a beach with an umbrella drink in hand.
What changed? I don’t know really; all of a sudden, we just got an urge to see Hawaii. It helped that our adventuresome son had recently raved about his trip, our lively parents had loved the place, and so many of our energetic friends had returned multiple times to the islands.
So, no, we didn’t get old or lazy, but we did have two big birthdays to observe early this year and had narrowed our celebration spot to Namibia or Hawaii (slightly different choices, I know!). Hawaii won.
We’re so glad it did. And we were so wrong in our previous thinking. Maybe some people hang out on beach chairs sipping tropical cocktails for a week in Waikiki, but we were able to find more than enough to do on two of the lush, green islands that make up this chain of volcanic dots in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.
We started on Oahu. With the main Hawaiian airport, skyscrapered Honolulu, jam-packed Diamondhead, and yes, clichéd Waikiki on its shores, Oahu was routinely dissed by many friends who gave us travel advice. It’s too urban, too touristy, too congested, many tsk-tsked. But a close friend who knows Hawaii well convinced us to head directly out of Honolulu upon landing and hightail it to the quieter North Shore. A little research turned up more hiking options there than almost anywhere else in the islands, and we spent four days in an area with very little of the built-up feel of the southern shore or the other islands with strips of resort hotels.
We passed our days on a series of coastal trails, among them a long, sandy stroll to the northern tip, Kahuku Point;
a rough, windy walk out to far-west Kaena Point;
and a pine needle-laden path to a huge, old banyan tree and on to a World World II pillbox near Kawela Bay.
We ate from a shrimp truck, a local sandwich shop, and a 68-year-old shave ice stand in surfer-town Haleiwa while we admired the surfboards (and a few surfers, too – sorry, J) standing up against many a brightly-painted building. We watched those colorful boards in action, too, at the Banzai Pipeline, where young and old alike unfolded their tanned torsos in the curl of a huge wave pounding toward shore.
Our next stop was the Big Island, this one recommended by many who had found the land mass the most ecologically diverse and the “real Hawaii,” as we heard more than once. The first claim was easy to prove: in the next four days, we drove from lava fields to verdant gardens to ranch lands to desert scrub to one of the most serene and stunning beaches we’d ever seen. And back again, more than once, through these variations.
As we had on Oahu, we sought out some small communities, like Volcano Village, a street of about ten buildings near Volcanoes National Park, where we stayed in an old YMCA camp-turned-inn. After last year’s eruption of Kilauea, the world’s most active and dangerous volcano, parts of the crater rim drive were devastated and the breathtaking lava lake at Halema’uma’u crater collapsed and drained, leaving a vast field of dried-up, smoking lava.
The effects of Kilauea’s huge 1959 eruption are still eerily visible as well, making the visit to the park both mind-blowing and a little disappointing (in spite of our good fortune that its federal employees had kept it open during the government shutdown).
We also particularly enjoyed tiny Hawi on the northern edge of the island, where we caught an impromptu hula performance by a group of senior citizens and ate at a kitchsy restaurant that was part of Hawi’s rebound from ghost-town status in recent years. Near here, we took our steepest hike of the trip, picking our way slowly down a pitched, root-strewn path into the Pololu Valley that started with this panoply of warnings:
We felt secure enough in our footwork (and stayed hard to the non-cliff side!) and were rewarded with a misty, black sand beach … and then the long climb back up and out. It was the workout we were looking for, and the views may have been the most remarkable of the trip.
A shorter down- and uphill trail took us through the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden just outside Hilo. Given its internet presence and lofty name, I expected a major tourist attraction but was very pleasantly surprised to drive in on a 1½-lane, S-curve road and find a magical oasis that was the result of one man’s 8-year effort to clear and replant this Onomea Valley hillside in the late 70s.
We had our nicest dinner of the trip in crisp and cool Waimea, Hawaii’s higher-elevation ranchland that felt a little bit Outback, a little bit Texas in its look and spirit. We made the drive from sea level to 3000 feet and back a couple of times, never tiring of the vistas in either direction.
On the Kohala coast, we happened upon the Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail, a 175-mile network of seaside walking paths that ran near our hotel. After hiking the section nearby, we re-joined the trail twenty miles down the coast toward Kona a few days later, where we wandered through Kekaha Kai State Park one morning.
We picked our way through clots of hardened lava for several long, hot slogs, rounding a corner every once in a while to a new viewpoint where, I must admit, I found myself saying “Oh, it’s just another beach.”
Nine days in paradise may have made me sound jaded, but Hawaii is far from ho-hum. There are so many brilliant flowers, so much ambrosia-like pineapple and other fruit, and so many postcard-perfect palm trees bowing down to white sand beaches that I can barely imagine the days when I thought it would be an uninspired destination.
I never really thought about the fact that I could stay in the U.S. and be in Polynesia at the same time, surrounded by South Pacific motifs and visages, Aussie and Kiwi accents, and signs and menus in Japanese, to mention just a few of the cultural treats throughout our travels. We made a point to try and see the “real Hawaii,” on two feet as much as we could, and we think we succeeded. We ate breakfast with barefooted surfers on the north coast of Oahu, had to nix a hike when the only parking was in a seedy neighborhood crawling with cop cars, and missed getting some musubi at a 7-11 when a guy out front decided to take his pants off, scaring us off.
But we also stayed at a couple of beautiful oceanfront hotels, watched the sun rise and set over palm trees and limpid seas, swam in the ocean, and drank coffee in a warm and breezy open-air restaurant every morning.
We spent our last day in … yep, Waikiki, and we loved the whole loud, lit-up place. J wore the Hawaiian shirt his dad brought back decades ago, I wore more sundresses in a week and a half than I have in years, and one day at the pool, wearing the pink and orange flowered flip-flops gifted by the hotel, I ordered my own tropical umbrella drink with no shame at all. Mahalo, beautiful state – we will be back for more!
Jane Lurie said:
Hawaii is amazing and your captures are gorgeous, Lex. Glad you enjoyed its incredible natural beauty. Diamond Head is astounding from above.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thank you, Jane! It was even more beautiful (and more varied) than I expected. And I can never resist a good out-the-airplane-window shot!
LikeLiked by 1 person
restlessjo said:
It does look stunning and I’m so glad that the first of your celebrations went so well. Bring on the next one! 🙂 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Ahhh, Jo, I have to love ya – remembering that my husband is that little bit older and that I remain a spring chicken for a bit longer in 2019! 🙂 The trip was certainly a resounding success, and I’m glad we went for it.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Yeah, Another Blogger said:
👍👍 for Hawaii and for your story.
Neil
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thank you, Neil. It’s been an awfully long while since I’ve been active here, and it’s nice hear from everyone again!
LikeLiked by 1 person
CompassAndCamera said:
I was laughing through your first paragraph because, of course, I can totally relate to those thoughts even though we went to Kauai many years ago. (And my mom is actually in Kona right now, whale watching today!) Love your portrayal of the lesser known aspects of this much-loved state. The remote trails and beaches you explored look well worth the adventure. Paired with a tropical drink and some sunshine… what’s not to love? I need to put Hawaii back on the list! And that last photo — wow!!!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Haha – you would totally understand that attitude we had before we opened our minds up to this place! Travel is one area where I like to be proven wrong (okay, maybe the only area!). We saw some humpbacks doing some spouting and a little tail flapping, but we were only watching from shore; I bet your mom is having a blast! The weather on that side of the island was amazing the whole time we were there. (If she likes beer, send her to the Kona Brewing company for a yummy flight of their products!)
Once I got the hikes in and the off-the-beaten-track stuff done, you can bet I enjoyed the usual Hawaiian fare of rum drinks, a bit of sunbathing, piles of fruit, the ukulele music, and everything else they are famous for!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Cheryl Capaldo Traylor said:
So beautiful. Sounds like the perfect adventure! I love the diversity of Hawaii as shown in your glorious photos and described in the narrative. Makes me want to go, too!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
I would never have predicted that I’d go there at this time, but once we got the bug, we knew we were in for a fabulous time. We got so lucky with the weather (or maybe it’s always like that, making me love it even more), and we were pleased with our choices of where to go and stay. My guess is one can’t go wrong on any of the six major islands, and I aim to prove to myself that over time! 🌴
LikeLiked by 1 person
Steven and Annie said:
We visited Oahu a few years back on our way to Australia and drove all over the island. We haven’t visited the other islands yet but definitely plan on returning. Your photos certainly show their natural beauty.
Yes, it was beautiful, especially the north shore, but our biggest surprise was the poverty outside of the Honolulu area. So many buildings (many of which were schools) looked like 40+ year old military buildings. Many of the hikes and trails we went on were in really bad shape (not meant for tourists). You mentioned Polynesia – and Oahu reminded us a lot of many impoverished areas we’ve seen around the world.
I guess it’s all in expectations. I expected the island to be flush with tourist money and I expected cute little (touristy) towns along the shores. Definitely not the case. Oahu just seemed really poor.
After doing some research when we got home I began to understand how the islands were colonized and exploited. Did you have any of these thoughts while you were there driving around the island or am I really off base?
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Absolutely – 100% – I had many of these thoughts. I was shocked at the level of poverty and also (somewhat pleasantly) surprised on the other hand that it wasn’t all huge line-ups of all-inclusive hotels and posh shops and saronged tourists. For me, the North Shore was a nice mix of local establishments, local homes, and a few nicer places to eat and stay. (I was also astonished at the general lack of good dining beyond the resort itself, which is never where I prefer to eat.)
I was a little bit forewarned about the poverty. Our son had some friends who chose Hawaii for a Teach for America assignment, and I snorted that this didn’t seem like the right demographic or socioeconomic profile. He quickly educated me on the great need there, so when I saw it, I was less surprised than I might have been otherwise. It’s really quite sad – another glaring example of sharp have/have not contrasts – but I guess I went in looking for some of the real life on the islands and not just the upscale tourist stuff. (To be honest and fair, we did stay at a very nice place and we wanted that bit of pools and beaches and white bathrobes, too!) You are so right that it’s almost an age thing; everything was a throwback to decades earlier (even the resorts, which luckily had been updated inside).
Thanks for your very thoughtful comment!
LikeLike
Steven and Annie said:
I’m looking forward to reading future and previous posts. We’ve visited many of the same places although not quite in the same ways. And Bhutan is on our list also for 2020 so I can’t wait to read about your experiences there.
Safe travels.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
LIkewise! And your list of places visited blows me away! I made my husband listen to me read it out loud – haha! I’d love to see every one of those countries, but he is a little less eager about a chunk of them.
LikeLike
Alison and Don said:
Yes yes and yes to all of this! You took me right back there. I’ve only ever been to Oahu (twice), and only ever stayed in Honolulu, but we loved it. Like you we explored the island, and discovered the quiet beaches of the north coast. I do believe we ate at the very same shrimp truck (soooo good!). I loved going down to Waikiki and watching the surfers at sunset. Beautiful photos Lexie. You make me want to go back to explore more of the islands.
Alison
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
I’m so glad to hear from someone who gets what I’m trying to say! All of the photos I’d seen, and the stories of my friends who stayed in places where there were vast strings of five-star resorts with infinity pools and massage tables and gourmet restaurants nearby, prepared me for pure luxury tucked into colorful flora beside turquoise seas. And of course that is all there, and it is gorgeous! But there’s so much more; there are real people there and real houses and stores and daily activity. THAT’s the part that fascinated me … but I still totally sank into the touristy stuff because heck, I was a tourist on vacation!
I am very eager to see a few more islands. It was not a bad flight at all (8.5 hours and we could go non-stop), and we seemed to hit a sweet spot of reduced post-Christmas crowds and prices. Hope you get back, too!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Green Global Trek said:
Lex, this is such an interesting post, because I like you made the same assumptions about Hawaii. I think there ARE many people that probably do go there to lie at the pool or beach and have a drink brought to them at the snap of the finger.
I have been educated by close friends who have lived there… I know many who spent numerous years and all of them loved it so much that they almost cry when they speak of those times as it meant so much to them. As well, my son did one of the most treacherous hikes in the world there (don’t ask!!) and my nephew spent a few weeks biking there. All rave reviews…
And yet I am still having a hard time convincing Ben that Hawaii is not “what he thinks it is”. So am glad to have your post to show him and hope that eventually at some point, we do manage to get there!!
I just love the photos of the flora at the botanic gardens and the dramatic views and black lava beaches. Sounds like an absolutely perfect trip! Well done and congrats on the birthdays. WAY to celebrate!!!!!!!
Peta
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Crouching Lion Trail? Eeeeek – we thought about that one, if that’s where your son did his treacherous hike. I nixed it, but we did descend the Polulu Trail despite all the dire warning signs, and it was not too bad. I like a challenge, but too many people have died on Crouching Lion. (Which may not even be what you are talking about.)
We had been somewhat prepped for what we might see away from the resort areas by our son, who has visited twice and who also became aware of the socioeconomic disparities there through his work with Teach for America. We didn’t go there to ogle the poorer side of life, but we do like to experience all aspects of a place and not just the oases set aside for tourists, so I was glad we stayed up north on Oahu where there was one nice resort (where we did stay; after all, we were there on vacation!), but plenty of other more local places to shop and dine and hike.
The garden near Hilo was truly amazing, especially in the context of how it was built by one man who made it his retirement life’s work. Thanks for the birthday wishes; J had his during the trip and mine is next month … the trip was a warm and active and fun way to celebrate!
LikeLike
The Snow Melts Somewhere said:
Yes, there are always normal, everyday life things to do in touristy places, and people who call those places home. Doing touristy things is a choice you can make anywhere, even in your home town! I never considered Hawaii tacky in the touristy sense and for us it’s a 36 hour journey to get there! 🤣 Lovely images, it truly is such a gorgeous place!
LikeLiked by 2 people
lexklein said:
I just guess I didn’t think the everyday things to do and see would be so accessible or so widespread in Hawaii, given that every photo we see online or in the press shows the upscale, flowery, beachy, sunny Hawaii. I very much enjoy both! So I felt lucky to have stayed where I could move between those worlds. I wholeheartedly agree that what I saw in Hawaii was not tacky at all; in fact, we were impressed by even those places that others have mocked as touristy in the bad sense of that word. (And that’s a whole other topic: why and whether tourism is by nature bad …?) I feel your pain about the travel time as that is what I face to get to most places in Asia, which means I don’t get there too often!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Bama said:
Hawaii has always been one of the US states I most want to visit (along with California, New York and Louisiana), and my desire to visit the Aloha State became even bigger after watching, ahem, Moana! I only watched it last year, but it evoked my curiosity of the Polynesian peoples who have historical ties with Indonesians (including the Javanese people of whom I belong) so much I was actually thinking of going to Samoa (via Fiji). But from how things look now this trip needs to be postponed. Glad you confirmed that despite the mass tourism, Hawaii still is a beautiful, charming place.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
One of the things I most enjoyed was some time spent learning about Hawaii’s place within Polynesia. The history and the culture are fascinating, and it’s sad that some of that is disappearing from the islands. Sure, the symbolism and some of the surface features are still very visible, but my impression from both observation and some reading has opened my eyes to the effects of westernization on native Hawaiian culture and values. Bottom line, though, is that Hawaii has warm and laidback people who also happen to live on one of the most beautiful places on earth!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Sue Slaght said:
It seems like you gaveJawaii quite the going over. We have loved our trips there and some of our lost memorable adventures have been there. We feel it provides something for every kind of traveller. So glad you had a wonderful celebration.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Well, we tried to thoroughly visit at least two of the islands! It is a lovely place, and you are exactly right about its appeal to many different types of traveler. I think that’s what I never really knew before. Now that I do, we are sure we’ll go back!
(Off topic: once again, I have written a comment on your blog – Shirley’s post this time – and I can’t see that it actually “sticks.” I have opened several different browsers to no avail. I know in the past that sometimes you can see it even if I can’t. Do you see anything there from me on today’s post?)
LikeLiked by 1 person
Sue Slaght said:
Your comment is there Lexie and Mom has responded to it. There seems to be a delay with some browsers. So sorry about that .
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Oh, good! Glad to hear it’s just a delay. I will stop fretting about it! (It only happens on occasion – so weird.) Have a great weekend!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Sue Slaght said:
It drives me mad and seems worse on Safari if that’s of any help. Thanks again for your patience.
LikeLike
Dave Ply said:
This is a lovely reminder of the islands, and a wake up call. It’s been 13 years since we’ve been there (Kauai) and almost 40 since my first trip, when I hit four islands.
Honolulu and Waikiki would still be low on my list, but all those other places look great. Guess we need to follow your lead make a return trip.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thanks for reading, Dave! It’s been a while since I’ve gone anywhere exciting and as you have probably noticed, my blog writing and reading have suffered! I’m so glad we decided to try Hawaii out. We just adored the climate and the natural beauty, and we still got to do it our way with lots of active exploring. Best of all worlds, and I’d definitely give it another go someday!
LikeLike
Liesbet @ Roaming About said:
What a fantastic trip, Lexie, and your photos are stunning! I’ve never been to Hawaii and it is certainly on my list. It would be the perfect vacation I’ve dreamed about for over ten years. That being said, it is probably very similar to French Polynesia. Yet, being able to do this within the US, as you point out, is fantastic.
My excuses not to go (yet)? The cost of accommodation and transportation (rental cars). If we’d find a suitable house sit there during the winter (with a car), that would change things. My islands of choice are Maui and the Big Island, also based on reports from friends and Mark. One day… Ideally while we are still on the West Coast. 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Going from the west coast would definitely help! Our car rental was not too expensive on Oahu because we rented and returned in the same city. I got some bad advice about how to best see the Big Island, and we ended up renting and returning in different cities, which was way too pricey. We loved the freedom of seeing so much of both islands, and we were lucky to be able to splurge on a nice place to stay while still exploring the everyday parts of both islands. Hope you get there soon – you will love it! Its natural beauty and perfect weather are almost hard to believe without seeing.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Anna said:
I did Oahu years ago to break up a long flight home. Pleasantly surprised – the island does have a lot to offer all sorts of travel types! Loved your pics.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thanks, Anna! Hawaii is a perfect little stopover for you. We were stunned by the number of Australians we saw on both islands, but then we realized that a flight from Sydney was barely longer than ours from Texas!
LikeLike
Elaine Bryan said:
You have certainly captured Hawaii’s lovely and unique beauty. The warning signs before your trek, however, made a mother tremble!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Hence the revealing of the signs only AFTER we’d successfully done that iffy little hike! It was fun seeing all the places you guys stayed all those years ago, too.
LikeLike
awtytravels said:
The thing is, America does cheesy stuff so well that it’s impossible not do it once. I’ve been a few times and I can’t say I shunned the IHOP, or felt a urge to keep on going to the sime diner/cafe where they call you “sweetheart” and answered yes when asked if I wanted cheese on that. So, yeah, why not spending some time in Waikiki?
As for trouserlessness in the shops… well, come to Britain (especially anywhere north of London and south of the Hadrian’s wall) on a Friday and you’ll see plenty of that! In fact I’m wondering if he didn’t have a Brummie accent.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
The thing is that we expected Waikiki to be cheesy, and it wasn’t really at all. Busier, yes, but much nicer than we anticipated. We came away from both island visits with a greater sense of Hawaii’s split personality (the luxurious and the everyday), but never really found the tackiness that we’d thought would be there. Lovely place; I’d go back for sure!
LikeLiked by 2 people
Mabel Kwong said:
Wow, what an amazing experience with Hawaii you had, Lex. Never too late to visit it, and it sounds like you still needed all of your fit and functional years to do this trip. Haha…another beach…but another great view, and another path to wander down. Also amazing to see that the places you chose weren’t crowded and you felt like you had the place to yourselves. Hope you get to go back and have more of those umbrella drinks by the pool 😀 Also, really like that pineapple shot. The fruit is literally glowing 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
We did somehow make it into the kind of active trip we enjoy! We laughed at ourselves a few times as we raced to the next activity, but we did consciously slow down on occasion and just sat in a beach or pool chair (for a short time!). The pineapple was in a field at the Dole Plantation. We both love to see how companies operate, so we did a little tour here and ate (and photographed) tons of the most amazing pineapple specimens ever!
LikeLiked by 1 person
J.D. Riso said:
Gorgeous photos, Lexie. They really capture the spirit of Hawaii. Funny how you thought it was only for lazier, unimaginative tourists. Florida springs to mind when I think of that. Yes, lots of beaches on Hawaii, but there’s also so much more, as you discovered. Polynesian culture, surf culture. When I visited, so many years ago I did nothing but hike and explore. My sister used to be a cliff diver at Waimea Falls Park! I got a kick out of Waikiki, too. A colorful place to spend a day/evening. So nice to see you posting again, too. I missed you. 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
I know; I was so misinformed/misguided/oblivious – haha. And I do think that way about Florida, too, which is likely just as dumb (of me). We must have driven past Waimea Falls Park a dozen times going back and forth from Kahuku to Haleiwa, but we never actually went in there. How amazingly cool that your sister was a cliff diver! Thanks for the welcome back; I have missed many of you, but I needed a break from the blog reading and writing crush. 🙂
LikeLike
AndysWorldJourneys said:
The flowers are amazing, and which island is the last picture with the craters??? What an amazing photo!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thanks, Andy! That is Diamondhead, one of two craters right near Honolulu (on Oahu). I had an amazing view of both it and Koko Head out the plane window both times we flew out of HNL.
LikeLike
Tina Schell said:
Your post reminds me how much I loved Hawaii and would love to return. It’s just so darned far away!!! Gorgeous photos and travelogue
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
It IS far, especially from the east coast … we realized when we heard all the Australian accents that they could get there almost as quickly and easily as we could! Glad I went, though, and now I’m open to going back and exploring some other islands someday.
LikeLiked by 1 person
twobrownfeet said:
I know what you mean. We have many places that we’d like to go when we want to things slow and easy. Although, there are times (like now) when I’d love to put my legs up and just read book. 🙂 I loved your pictures of the hardened lava, the long coastline, and that gorgeous aerial view at the end. It reminded me of Jeju and Iceland. Hawaii looks like the perfect place to enjoy a long walk and let time slide. Thanks for showing me the other side of the world. 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
There were a number of times Hawaii reminded me of Iceland with its lava fields, the tufted grasses growing from and covering the lava chunks, the sheer cliffs, the black sand, and more. The more we travel, the more we can see with our own eyes the way the Earth was formed and how similar many places are. It’s just fascinating. Glad to carry you over the Pacific a bit this week!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Joanne Sisco said:
LOVE your gorgeous photos and thank you for the flashback to my own visit to Hawaii too many years ago now.
We spent all of our time on the Big Island. We were there for the Ironman World Championship (my husband was competing). We took advantage of our time there to explore the entire island like you did. From the top of Mauna Kea to the Volcano National Park, snorkelling, body surfing, … we tried to do it all. It is paradise and I would happily go back.
Now that I think about it, I didn’t have a single tropical drink with an umbrella in it. I really should correct that omission 😉
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Oh, yes, you must go back and do the classic Hawaiian tourist things at least once! 🙂 How fun to be there for the Ironman, both as a participant and a companion. The Big Island offered so many varied activities; I really think visitors could plant themselves there and see a very good representation of what the whole state of Hawaii is all about. We didn’t make it to Mauna Kea, but did lots of other volcano-related hiking and viewing in the national park. I’d love to go back and do some stargazing up there sometime!
LikeLike
Joanne Sisco said:
Mauna Kea was at the top of my husband’s (aka Mr Science) list of things to do after the Ironman. We took a tour where they bussed us up, gave us a box dinner, and had telescopes set up with an itinerary of really cool stuff to see. Thankfully they also had Arctic gear for us to wear – it was FREEZING. We joked that these 2 dumb Canadians go to Hawaii only to end up in Arctic gear freezing our butts off 😉
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
That made me laugh out loud! We had Mauna Kea on our itinerary all along, but the stargazing is closed down for a while, and we just didn’t feel like driving an hour and a half there and back at the end of the trip; we had too many other things to do. Next time for sure!
LikeLiked by 1 person
carolinehelbig said:
I must admit Lexie that I had (maybe still have) some of these same preconceived notions about Hawaii. I have not visited yet. Lately, a few of my close friends who are very active have given glowing reports about their Hawaii experience, and now…this post! Time for me to re-think. It’s so great to read about your hiking adventures and your photos are gorgeous. I especially love that beach at the bottom of the trail with all those warning signs. Your North Shore surf culture photos are so fun. I want a photo of you in your flowered flip flops and tropical drink! Have you heard much about Kauai? Friends raved about the hiking there but apparently it’s very wet and winter is not the time to go. Lovely post!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Sorry to say but my flowery attire and colorful drink did not get captured for posterity!
I have actually heard that Kauai is the BEST place to hike (and maybe the prettiest), but yes, I think the steepness and roughness of the trails there would get pretty darn muddy and slippery at times. It was my #1 choice after I started researching, but our friend who travels to Hawaii for work every month recommended we start with two islands that had topography beyond rainforests so we could experience a range of what Hawaii has to offer. It was good advice, I think, but I very much want to try Kauai next time!
LikeLiked by 1 person
carolinehelbig said:
Hopefully we’ll both get to Kauai! Don’t cross Namibia off your list.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Namibia is definitely still on and quite high up there!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Lisa Dorenfest said:
Very odd. My comment seems to have gone missing. Let me try again.
I’m both sad and delighted that Namibia didn’t win. Hawaii is tops on our list to visit again and maybe never leave. Perhaps now you’ll relocate there with us 😄.
Amazing to think of how much the landscape has changed on Hawaii since our last pre eruption visit. Would have loved to stay in Volcano Village. Next time. Your spot on about how incredible it is to be in the US and Polynesia at the same time. And to be able to get Amazon Prime 2 day delivery made it paradise with a cherry on top for us.
My favorite story is of you and J in Wakiki sporting Aloha Wear and Umbrella drinks. I think I could spend a life like that 😁
Your pictures have me mesmerized and envious as always; the beaches, the palms, the lava fields, and the bursts of color from the surf boards and your Botanic Garden Top 9. But it’s the airplane shot that had me almost in tears it was so gorgeous … one I most definitely don’t have yet in my own collection but is making me reconsider my no fly policy.
Delighted you have joined the ranks of of Hawaii lovers and are now Ohana.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Namibia needed more time – both planning and time there. Soon! It’s still high on the list. It IS a bummer that we couldn’t have coordinated with you, though. 😦
Hawaii really is a great mix of different and familiar, as you say. You feel like you’re so far away (and you are!), but the (becoming rarer) plusses of still being in the U.S. are helpful.
I got super lucky on all our flights (we had 5 total; you would have freaked!) with clear air and great views. As I do not have a drone and probably never will, this is my sort of low-tech time to get the big overhead shots. I actually got so many good ones that it was hard to choose!
LikeLiked by 1 person
shoreacres said:
If by some chance you noticed Ala Wai harbor on Oahu, you would have seen the very spot when I began my own Hawaii interlude. That’s where our happy dozen gathered and began preparing for our sail to Alaska. We were at Ala Wai for two days, then sailed the Molokai channel to Kauai. The Na Pali coast would be my must-see-again if I went back. We were so busy getting the boat ready for the crossing we didn’t get to see much of the island itself — but did have drinks at the bar that served as Bloody Mary’s in the filming of South Pacific!
What I remember most about Kauai is the rainbows. I’ve never seen so many — they continually were appearing, shifting, and disappearing. Gorgeous, beyond words. Of course, in those days I didn’t really care much about the flora and fauna, except in an appreciative, touristy way. I was all about the boat, and the ocean voyage to come. That’s as it should have been. But your experience proves that a return to enjoy the islands as more than a departure point would be great.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
I certainly did see that harbor! We took a very long walk along the Waikiki coast, and I remember the harbor well, just past a lagoon we were looking for. I’m shutting my eyes and imagining the feelings of excitement you must have had as you readied yourselves and the boat for such a long journey. (Actually, I am really imagining the sheer terror I would feel in such a situation!) One of my dear blogging friends (who is sailing around the world and whom I visited on her sailboat in Madagascar this summer) talks so fondly of her anchorage in Hawaii also.
Kauai’s Na Pali coast was our top choice for hiking, but our friend really wanted us to see Oahu and the Big Island first. We acquiesced, but Kauai is for sure the next island we would try if/when we ever go back to Hawaii.
LikeLike
wheresjwo said:
That looks like a great trip! Awesome photos! I felt the same way you did about not having an interesting in going to Hawaii but I end up appreciating its culture and beauty each time I go.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Definitely a surprise in the right direction! I’m eager to go back someday and try a few more islands.
LikeLike
James said:
Lex, I am almost drooling over your photos of the landscapes and all that incredible endemic flora. Hawaii has been on my travel wish list for the longest time – ever since I got interested in volcanoes as a 9- or 10-year old. And of course there’s the food as well: I’m a fan of poke, pineapples, and Mauna Loa macadamia nuts, which I grew up eating at home. My brother tells me he would love to visit the Mauna Loa farm and sample/buy nuts with different flavors and seasonings when he eventually makes it there, and I’ll likely do the same.
Speaking of your preconceptions, I had similar thoughts on Bali and it took some convincing from Bama to finally make the effort to visit. That was back in 2013 and I’ve returned no less than four times since then! Yes, there are very touristy areas that are getting increasingly crowded (with traffic jams to match), but it still has its magic and beauty. I guess Bali is a bit like Hawaii in that there’s something for everyone – whether it’s spending your entire vacation by the pool or at a beach, getting immersed in the local culture, or going hiking, diving, and canyoning.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
I think your conclusions about the draw of places like Bali and Hawaii are exactly right; there really is something for everyone. I got stuck in the mindset that Hawaii was only for a certain kind of traveler, and that was just a very bad assumption.
I probably ate more pineapple on that trip than I have in years! Funny thing about the poke: local opinion (and apparently, some discriminating travelers’ as well) is that some of the best stuff actually comes from basic local grocery stores or even the otherwise uninspired Foodland supermarkets. We went with the experts and enjoyed a great sampling of poke from some ratty little store (that got good reviews) on the side of the road! Likewise, some swear by the Spam musubi at 7-11 (most certainly NOT where I normally head for lunch or a snack), so we tried to get some there, only to be deterred by that (drunk) guy I mentioned in the post who was struggling to get his pants off right outside the front door. 🙂 We will have to go back for that one!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Jolandi Steven said:
What lovely pictures of what is clearly a breathtaking destination. It was good to travel there with you Lex, as I don’t think I’ll ever make it there.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thanks! It was so much prettier than I even expected, and I’m glad I was not silly enough to put off this lovely destination that is “so close,” relatively speaking! There are places I know I will likely never get to either, and it’s always fun to visit virtually on here.
LikeLike
Amy Sampson said:
I would have turned around and ran back to where I came from at those signs!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Haha – I honestly did not fully expect to go the whole way down when we first drove there to see the views. But I started inching down and then walking faster and then I just committed to get down and back up once I realized I could stay away from the worst edges. The signs and online warnings are always scarier than the actual thing, I’ve found. I’m pretty surefooted, so as usual, I worried more about my husband (who is also perfectly surefooted and kept telling me to just take care of myself instead of constantly saying “Be careful” and “move over”)!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Amy Sampson said:
Daredevils! 🤪
LikeLiked by 1 person
Manja Mexi Movie said:
Ahh, yes! It looks like you did it right. Surfers and black sand beach and all the crazy plants! (It looks AND it sounds right. I’ve read it too.) 😉 Oh, and happy important birthday (it’s good that you’re finally 30). Beautiful beautiful photos.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thanks, Manja! It was soooo pretty and a perfect place to celebrate just about anything at any age!
LikeLiked by 1 person
LuAnn said:
Lex, this was the perfect read for me as we too have kept Hawaii on the back burner, awaiting the day when we want a more relaxed vacation, sitting on a beach, drinking spiced rum. Our friends cannot believe that we haven’t visited Hawaii yet. Perhaps it is time to take a closer look. Thanks for the tips!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Given our travel history, no one believed us either when we said we’d never been there! We had enough young and active people singing Hawaii’s praises in recent years that we bit-by-bit opened up our minds to giving it a try. It was much easier to fit into a tight timeframe, and that was the winning qualification when we were making January plans. It’s also just so easy (something many of our more far-flung trips are not) and post-Christmas, it was just the ticket. Hope you give it a try soon!
LikeLiked by 1 person
LuAnn said:
Given your description and tips, I think we will Lexi!
LikeLiked by 1 person
LdG luciledegodoy said:
I have never visited Hawaii for I had heard the same impressions you described prior to being there. Your photos are amazing and your narrative made me change my mind.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
One of the best things about reading other people’s travel stories is that it introduces me to so many new places and/or gives me fresh ideas about places I had discounted in my own mind. Glad to hear I might have intrigued you enough to try Hawaii someday!
LikeLike
Bespoke Traveler said:
Haha, glad you picked Hawaii. It’s a favorite paradise of mine and while in Oahu I loved getting to know its mountains, rivers, and waterfalls. Tiny island with such a lot of active exploring to do. Happy Belated Birthday!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thank you! Yeah, we’re glad we chose it, too – good lesson about not making assumptions!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Hoarder Comes Clean said:
I’m late to the party here, not sure how I missed this post but so glad I found it now. Wow. What wonderful photos! And, like you, I save what I think are the easier trips for later in life. I did go to Hawaii once in the 1980s on a trip to Taiwan with my 2 best buddies. They chose the stopover, which hadn’t occurred to me. We were pressed for time and had only 3 days there – you’ve made me eager to go back. … and guess what, it’s getting ‘later’ pretty quickly now.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
And now I’m very late to respond – sorry! I had to chuckle at your last sentence; I am under the (likely delusional) impression that I am still early in my traveling days and that I can easily postpone things. While that is true in some ways (we hope to ramp up the trips once we are retired), we are also not spring chickens anymore! We are very pleased that we chose to visit Hawaii at this time, and I could honestly see going back for a few more islands sooner rather than later. It was an idyllic span of days!
LikeLike
Tina Schell said:
We too love Hawaii Lex. It’s gorgeous and as you learned there is much to see and do if you are high energy (as are we and you!!). Your photos are fabulous, you so caught the spirit of the many places you visited. Loved your post—it could have carried you for weeks so I applaud you for posting it all at once!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thanks, Tina. My MO is to post my thoughts and feelings about a place and not go too much into the whole history or all sorts of practical travel info, so I generally only post once on any given place. There are exceptions – I think I remember at least six on Mongolia! – but that’s also because it was so different and I wasn’t telling most readers stuff they (or I) already knew.
LikeLiked by 1 person
FastPam@thelifebus said:
Hawaii is amazing. And you are right, for people who love adventure, they don’t think it has anything to offer outside of the beaches. They are so wrong – glad you went and enjoyed it. For some reason, it is one of the few places I go on vacation and relax, even with all of the fun activities – I will spend maybe one day hanging by the pool. It must be the wonderful warm, humid (but lovely) breeze that quiets my mind. Before I went, I envisioned aging tourists in loud shirts (with loud voices to match) and black sox with sandals. Granted, that does exist, but it has soooo much more to offer!! The golfing there is some of my favorite…you are inspiring me to plan a trip there sometime soon! The last time I went for my 50th, I had a 5 day kayaking/camping trip planned in Kauai. No less then 5 hurricanes swirled the island when we got there so all of those plans changed! We had to improvise with new activities for 2 weeks!! Sounds like Bhutan huh?? lol. Glad you loved it!!
LikeLiked by 1 person
FastPam@thelifebus said:
PS loved all of your photos – the flowers there are Uh-Mazing!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
We will definitely go back, something I did not imagine saying before I went. It really did defy expectations in all the best ways. How could I even take a bad photo of the flowers or anything else?! It really was one of the prettiest places I’ve ever seen, day after day, place after place. Bummer about your trip, but it sounds like it still delivered for you even with the bad weather luck. And yes … sounds very similar to Bhutan’s weather surprises!
LikeLiked by 1 person
FastPam@thelifebus said:
I have to admit, the first time I set eyes on the Big Island, I thought, oh lord, why are we here….then we started to see all of the beautiful things surrounding the black lava! Yeah, the last trip was a sign I think….I broke up with my boyfriend right after – which was a very good thing – so it all worked itself out!!!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Haha!
LikeLike