Tags
ancient, archaeology, family travel, Italy, Roman Empire, Rome
I got a double dose of Rome last month in more than one way. In round one, with my parents, I got in three days of the city as a repository of antiquities, with a guide at all the hot spots.
In a return a week later with my son, we roamed the modern-day capital on our own, certainly seeing plenty of tourist sites for his first-time visit, but spending more of our time just walking, sitting in random cafes, and poking around less frequented quarters of the city.
The learner in me always appreciates a guided tour, and we covered a huge amount of ground in the early days, working our way through the centuries, from deeply BC to the relatively modern medieval period and beyond. I’m not much of a history buff, but the depth and breadth of the past’s footprint here is formidable, and its presence in a large, vibrant city is both anomalous and perfectly fitting.
From the Colosseum’s sheer size and gory records to the feats of engineering at the Pantheon, from the somewhat underwhelming Spanish Steps to the overwhelming, over-the-top Trevi fountain, we are in the grip of the city’s history even as we delight in its modern sophistication.
Whether you’re officially there for the ruins or not, Rome will show them to you. As T and I wander the city later in search of mundane, contemporary places, we stumble onto the remains of Trajan’s column and forum, nestled up against a trendy wine bar.
Every time we return to our hotel, we casually glance at another cat-infested field of columns, completely unaware that the Largo di Torre Argentino area is one of the oldest vestiges of the early city.
We learn to look for ancient outlines, for example, in the Piazza Navona, whose shape mirrors that of the circa 80 AD stadium serving as the current square’s foundation, and even in parking lots whose forms follow the contours of the small amphitheaters that lie below them. Like Athens, Rome is a ramble in and out of periods of time separated by millennia.
In between gulps of history, we stuff our bellies with a different kind of sustenance: Roman-style pizza and enough caprese salads to last … well, at least the rest of the summer. We cool off with fresh fruit at Campo de Fiori and melting gelato in the twisty little streets of Trastevere. A non-pasta eater at home, I fall madly in love with cacio e pepe, eating it four out of seven nights in Rome. Even this basic, age-old dish conjures up the Roman Empire, intertwining ancient history and modern life once again.
During both stays, we relish the natural parts of the scenery as much as the buildings in the fair late spring weeks. We crane our heads upward, admiring the mother of all wisteria vines cascading down a house in the Ludovisi neighborhood, as well as the ubiquitous Mediterranean pines that cover the city in a haphazard canopy of broccoli-esque crowns.
We stoop to regard the much daintier pink and white flowers tumbling down the Spanish steps.
A peek off a Vatican balcony offers a refreshing view of simple morning shade amid all the papal pomp, and Palatine Hill offers a soft, green diversion from the sternly marbled Forum down below.
From introduction to finale, Rome repeatedly shows us her two faces – the archeological smorgasbord and the thriving modern capital. As we depart the city by taxi early our final day, tired and preoccupied with upcoming travel details, the Colosseum suddenly appears against the post-dawn sky. We’ve already seen every inch of it inside and out with our official tickets, but as the ordinary morning sunshine illuminates the arched openings in an extraordinary way, we feel full force the inseparable connection between past and present that Rome embodies.
Cheryl Capaldo Traylor said:
Gorgeous photos! And I love hearing about how you spent your days. I had to google cacio e pepe, then realized my Dad made this dish and called it cheese spaghetti! I had no idea it was an actual traditional Italian dish. Now I know. I’m glad you had a lovely time!
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lexklein said:
Thanks! I figured most people have seen enough photos of the big-name attractions, so with a few exceptions, I used my more everyday life shots. That’s a great story about the pasta; I chuckled as I imagined your sudden nod of recognition. I had never heard of cacio e pepe here because I just don’t eat pasta very much, but I knew it was a very traditional Roman dish and had to try it. Now I’m hooked!
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estelea said:
Oh thank you !!!! What a beautiful treat to wake up to those pictures! I had to scroll up to read the text, I was so into the beauties of the town. I can’t wait to visit Italy, and those markets, oh lalalalalala, thanks dear for sharing.
I bet you are hooked, I am already just by reading your post ! Grazie mile 🙂
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lexklein said:
Prego, amica mia!! 🙂 I’m glad you enjoyed a little peek at Rome. Where are you going this summer while you are home? I’m assuming you will go back for a little cool air this summer!
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estelea said:
Oh yeah! As we’ll be in the South of France, the kids will stay with their cousins and Marcel and I will finally take 3 days out of HoneyMoon credit to run away to Turin. It’s only a 4h drive, and little by little we are getting closer to Florence. Turin seems less crowded in August so we opted for the easiest option …
Can’t wait! As much as I appreciate my surroundings here, I ve been missing the European culture and history so much. Can’t even believe there will be “normal” coffees there, not the usual Starbucks bucket 😉 – although coffee wise, Vietnam is really a winner.
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lexklein said:
I totally get it. Even when you love where you are, nothing quite feels like your home continent! I know you’ll have a fantastic time!
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Bama said:
I have to admit when it came to the food part, my stomach suddenly rumbled. I have never been to Rome, but I think one word to really describe the city is ‘timeless’ — all the photos, blog posts, magazine articles and videos about the Italian capital that I have seen, read and watched led me to this conclusion. Looks like when you were there you had a few cloudy days as well as those with blue skies. This was in April, right?
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lexklein said:
I almost used the word “timeless” in the post! Yes, I was there for two weeks in April, and believe it or not (for me this is something amazing), we had 100% perfect weather the entire time! There were puffy clouds some days, and moody clouds some evenings, but every single day brought sunshine and warm temperatures. It was like some cosmic force was reimbursing me for the rain-fest I endured in Ecuador in January!
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Bama said:
Mother Nature certainly has her own way of reminding us that not all is bad.
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restlessjo said:
What an entrancing piece, Lexie! I ambled right along with you, looking up, looking down… and all of it wonderful. Why have I never been to Rome? Glorious photos! 🙂 🙂
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lexklein said:
Oh, thank you, Jo! I was in the same boat – had traveled all over the world to crazy and remote places and had been to other parts of Italy, but never Rome before this! I was thrilled to get the double dip, once with my parents early in the trip and then a return for four days at the end with my son. I liked the city so much more than I had expected to!
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restlessjo said:
I’ve always been ambivalent about it but based on this I could easily change my mind xx
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lexklein said:
I was SO ambivalent! If my aging parents and youngest son had not made it a top choice, I would still be waffling on it.
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Manja Mexi Movie said:
Great to see your Rome takeaways. Last weekend I had a unique opportunity to see ten Roman courtyards around Campo de Fiori on a Sunday morning since it was an open door day. What a great experience with way too many photos. Just in time too, because from now on it’s only going to get hotter. I was amazed how empty Rome was at 9 am. Quite manageable!
I love your glimpses, especially the seagull and the statue shop. Please what is that ball statue? I don’t recognise it. Maybe one day we can hop around it (or Tuscany) together, I’d love it!
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lexklein said:
I would have loved to see those courtyards! We stayed less than a block away from Campo de Fiori during the 2nd stint in Rome, so we got to see the quiet times and the jam-packed times.
The sphere sculpture is by Arnaldo Pomodoro (Italian) and it was in one of the main courtyards at the Vatican. Funny thing is I walked into the area and immediately recognized the piece because he has another one at Trinity College, Dublin which I had previously admired! I think there are at least 10 other versions around the world.
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Manja Mexi Movie said:
Thank you! At the Vatican Museums or just out in the open so that everybody can see it? Haven’t been there the last couple of years.
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lexklein said:
Inside, unfortunately for you. In the Cortile della Pigna (where the pine cone sculpture is).
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Mabel Kwong said:
What wonderful times in Rome, Lex. Cacio e pepe is quite a pasta and I love it. I’ve wondered what it tastes like over there in Rome, so coming from you who doesn’t really like pasta must be out of this world. And you ate it so often there too lol. It’s amazing to see how Rome has maintained most of its charm from the past – and so many of us are so keen on admiring all the wonderful structures and architecture. Somehow all of them blend so well with the sunshine and skies all round.
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lexklein said:
Thanks, Mabel! It was so strange how much I loved that simple pasta dish! I’d heard about it but never thought much of it and certainly would have never ordered it here. But when in Rome … haha. Other than Athens, I had never been anywhere that the city was such a jumble of time periods. Absolutely fascinating and so fun to explore!
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Anna said:
Oh how I love Rome! It’s been a long time for me…. I should go back and take the family for their first time! I’m sure little miss A won’t mind a diet of pizza and gelato! Lol
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lexklein said:
That would be a great family trip! I can tell you that other than the cacio e pepe which I inexplicably fell in love with, I too was happy to eat pizza all day long, every day. Of course, I am also happy to eat pizza all day long here, but the Roman pizza in big slabs just waiting for you to say how much to chop off and hand you in a piece of wax paper …. oh, you can see I am swanning over the idea even from afar! Go, eat!!
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Anna said:
Oh those pizza slabs handed over in wax paper….. You’re bringing back memories from 17 years ago when I was a young 21 year old who could eat whatever she wanted and not worry! Lol
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Liesbet @ Roaming About said:
Rome surely appears to be a spectacular city! I think one needs weeks to fully embrace what it has to offer. You did a good job exploring and enjoying with all your senses, Lexie, and with all your company. Your photos are stunning and offer a refreshing view of Rome. I’ve never been, but I have a feeling I’ll be overwhelmed once I set foot in this intriguing city. I better plan on at least a week, whenever this happens.
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lexklein said:
It is sort of overwhelming, which made breaking it into two separate chunks staying in two different parts of the city a great way to do it. The same goes for the overwhelming idea of photographing all the iconic sights … so I mainly gave up on that after a few obligatory shots, and then moved on to photos of Roman seagulls and pizza and bubbles! 🙂
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KD said:
Gorgeous photos. It’s amazing the variety of spots you can explore in just one city. Thanks for the peek!
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lexklein said:
Thanks! Especially one like this, with something to appeal to everyone!
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Elaine and Bob said:
We were we had been along on your a second tour of Italy! No fair, say your “ elderly parents!
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lexklein said:
You were there in spirit! Are you arguing the use of the word “elderly?” I think I used a similar word solely to connote that you might not be jaunting off to Europe every year for the next decade. We all know you refuse to behave like old people! 🙂
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J.D. Riso said:
A fabulous tour, Lexie. Rome is a delight for the senses. One of those places you can live your whole life in and never run out of new discoveries. The Coliseum seems so out of place right in the middle of the city. It reminds me of Dorothy’s house (Wizard of Oz) when it fell on Munchkin land. Is that you sitting on the steps? Beautiful photo.
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lexklein said:
Ah, you spotted me. I do hide occasionally in my posts, but not often. Other than my pants inexplicably riding halfway up my shins, it was an acceptable shot and not terribly clear, which is perfect. 🙂 Totally agree that Rome is unfinishable; I love places like that! And yes, I agree also on the massive Colosseum plunked right there in the city. As we left town, I figured we’d pass by storefronts and the usual peripheral neighborhood stuff, but all of a sudden, there it loomed!
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AndysWorldJourneys said:
be it ever so incredible – there’s no place like Rome!
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lexklein said:
That gave me a good laugh, Andy! And you are so right!
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sportsdiva64 said:
Wicked beautiful pictures. Rome is breathtaking
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lexklein said:
Thanks! A little off the usual big subjects, but some of my faves from the trip!
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Dave Ply said:
The old history of cities like Rome tend to boggle my mind; even though the Forum and Colosseum are but ruins these days, in my mind’s eye I still see toga’d folks wandering around.
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lexklein said:
I totally get that! I always feel the presence of the original inhabitants of places I visit, like the Incas at Machu Picchu, Lucy in Olduvai Gorge, and yes! – Romans in togas and other draped and pleated clothing milling about these giant old spaces! Rome was definitely a place where the history was almost palpable.
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Sue Slaght said:
Lex I love the idea of the two very different ways of exploring Rome and with two different generations. There is something about seeing the big name tourist attractions but I love wandering into lessen known areas and making discoveries. For me it is often those memories that are the true treasures of a trip. So many gorgeous photos here but the bubbles just bring such immediate joy to me. Beautiful.
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lexklein said:
I had fun with those bubble photos! (I wish all the lines lined up, though – no matter how I try to square it up, something is wonky!). When I first planned the trip with my two different sets of companions, I was kind of irritated that I had to repeat Rome. As it turned out, it was a brilliant strategy!
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James said:
Ah Lex, what a lovely tribute to the Eternal City. I have not had the fortune of trying cacio e pepe and judging by your words (plus the fact that you had it most nights) it must be an extraordinary pasta dish! This is a timely reminder that I must revisit Rome at some point. I was there long ago as a teenager on a whistle-stop tour of Italy; some of my favorite memories include being awed by the sheer size of the Colosseum, looking up through the Pantheon’s oculus as the sky turned pink and orange at sunset, and eating gelato at the Trevi Fountain in place of dinner!
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lexklein said:
The oculus and the Pantheon ceiling in general were real highlights (literally!). My photos did not do justice to the incredible engineering that went into that place, but it was a favorite stop, especially for my dad who is very engineering-minded. Your other memories are ones we will surely have, too. Rome is really an amazing place and one that can be revisited many times with no reduction in enjoyment.
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Bespoke Traveler said:
What a treat to be able to experience Rome so differently, through the eyes of various members of your family. You had me laughing at, “whether you’re officially there for the ruins or not, Rome will show them to you.” So true! I like this second tour of yours where those slaps of history are integrated and separated by…bubbles! and classical reproduction heads tucked in a corner and flowering vines.
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lexklein said:
The second tour is my kind of travel, but I do occasionally like a classic guided tour in a place like this where the history is so dense. The double dip worked out really well and let us all enjoy the city in the ways we liked best.
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Curt Mekemson said:
Great post, Lexi.
“but spending more of our time just walking, sitting in random cafes, and poking around less frequented quarters of the city.” To me, the true secret of getting to know a city. Peggy and I walked for hours in Rome and barely touched on what it has to offer. Thanks for sharing. –Curt
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lexklein said:
Thanks, Curt. I certainly agree on the way to really get to know a city. Staying in two totally different neighborhoods helped, too, but like you guys, we know we merely scratched the surface of this amazing city. Plain and simple – gotta go back! 🙂
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Curt Mekemson said:
So many, many places I think that way about. 🙂 It’s a good thing! –Curt
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lexklein said:
I’m with you!
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The Snow Melts Somewhere said:
Cacio e pepe – had to look it up, and now I wish I had a nice dish of pasta! 🙂 Lovely post, Lexi. Rome was never my Italian favorite, but I would gladly go back anytime! Besides its obvious history, there’s so much beauty to those little details: the cats, the flowers… even the well prepared pasta dishes have beauty in them. (How did you get that seagull to pose so still for your photo?!) 😄
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lexklein said:
I never imagined Rome would be a favorite city, and then it surprised me! The history might have even been the least of it. We just had a very good, relaxed time there on both ends of the trip. The food, the places we stayed, the trees and flowers – it was all beautiful and easy.
That seagull was on the rooftop of our second hotel, and he boldly walked right up to us as we had drinks and snacks every evening, but he never tried to take our food. He was both brazen and polite, and HUGE! I took a selfie of him looming over me at one point. I began to think of him as a new Roman friend by the end! 🙂
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The Snow Melts Somewhere said:
Hahah! Like a little pet! Seagulls are huge over here too, and bold … but they aren’t polite! They’ll steal your food every time!
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carolinehelbig said:
Lexi, your photos are just exquisite. Rome is one of my favourite cities. I’m glad you had time to roam and poke around. While I was impressed with the sites and history, there is just something so appealing about taking in the general vibrance and beauty of this city (and the food too).
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lexklein said:
Thanks so much, Caroline! I felt the same way about Rome; the history is amazing, and the ruins are mind-boggling, but the really fun part was just the rambling around, taking it all in. It’s also rare that I find the food at my destination to be something I care deeply about, but the pizza and pasta there – OMG, I am salivating just thinking about them! My husband had gone for work so many times, and I was always either working myself or said “Eh, Rome doesn’t really appeal to me that much.” How wrong I was!
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awtytravels said:
Ah Rome, you old chestnut. Even in these sad days, she still charms and seduces.
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lexklein said:
I’m sure the old girl looks different to new eyes!
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Lisa Dorenfest said:
Well you know I love the pigeon picture. And now I get to see him framed in a plethora of Rome’s sites. Other-worldy! My favorites are your glimpse of Trevi Fountain and the Wisteria in Ludovisi. And oh how I would kill for that Market. Wait ’til you see the one we have waiting for you in Nosy Be.
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lexklein said:
Cities are so great for the very thing evident in your comment: there is everything there! Birds, markets, great architecture sometimes covered in beautifully out-of-control flowers, and creations of man that inspire. Rome had it all and then some; I loved it so much more than I expected I would. Nosy Be will be a whole different kind of city; the anticipation and the strangeness (in a good way) of it all piques my imagination daily!
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