Tags
beach, driftwood, Georgia, out of this world, St Simons Island, summer, Weekly Photo Challenge, youth
A seasonal time warp dropped me into a brief summer idyll last week. In the day and a half it took me to drive nearly halfway across the lower U.S., I transitioned from late winter rain and fog to luminous blue skies, cottony clouds, and soft, warm air.
In the early hours, the atmosphere was thick with fog and the greasy refinery stench of East Texas, Lake Charles, and Baton Rouge. As I pushed on, the petrochemical panorama eventually gave way to tangly brown swamps crouching below the causeways of Louisiana.
For me, it’s always an eerie part of the drive – a divided road propped up on pylons above the brackish water, followed by bridges over the Atchafalaya Basin’s Henderson Swamp, an enormous and ghostly pool of water in which half-buried trees appear to be drowning. Billboards hawk boudin and cracklins for miles, neither of which tempted me to stray from my path hard east.
The mist slowly lifted, and so did my spirits, as I spied skeins of birds unspooling over the low-country wetlands of Mississippi and Alabama and, later, a shimmering expanse of water dancing with hard white points of light near Pensacola.
The second morning, fields of bristly marsh grasses appeared, my sign that coastal Georgia was near. I-10 straight east, Houston to Jacksonville, and then a short northern jog. That’s all it took to land me in a hot summer milieu that smelled just like childhood.
It lasted all week, a gift of lightness and the very best kind of nostalgia. “School’s out!” the fresh air cried, and we flung the windows open and popped in the screens at my parents’ sunny house. It was summer break in mid-February, and I hungrily inhaled the sweet and earthy scent of grass and warm soil. I marveled as flowers and ferns began to sprout from one day to the next. A chorus of birdsong was my morning wake-up call, and cheeping insects serenaded the dog and me on her last trip outside each night.
I pedaled an old bike into the wind, savoring the delectable mix of hot sun and cool air on bare arms. In the company of my parents and younger sister, we revisited old pastimes, ducking into the DQ for long-eschewed treats and lolling on the couch with the NY Times crossword in the evening. The aroma of fresh shrimp and veggies rose from the grill, and a hint of chlorine, fertilizer, and light mildew – all smells I strangely love – put the finishing touches on my olden-days reverie. The years and cares that had been piling up rolled away, and if my birthday hadn’t been at the end of that exquisite week, I might have been convinced I was several decades younger.
Which leads me to graceful aging …
A highlight of the week was a walk on Jekyll Island’s Driftwood Beach, a popular, well-loved shoreline that had somehow eluded my acquaintance in many years of being so close by. It was immediately obvious this had been a terrible oversight!
Jekyll’s northern beaches are slowly eroding; each year, more and more sand is pushed by the sea and dumped on the south end of the island. In that process, centuries-old live oaks and pines are uprooted and scattered across the hard sand that is constantly pounded by ocean currents and then baked by the sun.
A few trees remain rooted but most are sun-bleached carcasses strewn about like sculptures in an outdoor art exhibit. While the otherworldly scene has become popular for wedding shoots, my sister and I used it like the children we had regressed to, climbing barefoot on trunks, branches, and toppled root systems as our father amusedly looked on.
The driftwood has an admirable, simple beauty, a spare look that’s enhanced by the blue of the ocean beyond and the pinkish tinge of early sunset. We roamed aimlessly for a while, climbed some more, took our photos, then slipped back through the ferns and palms to the road. Like the buffed and whitened old trees, my own troubled edges were scrubbed clean by my week in the sun, and I came home rejuvenated, eager to reclaim the simple pleasures of summer and youth, every day.
Alison and Don said:
This sounds so lovely, and that beach is fabulous. I think a week of summer would do me the world of good too – back in my childhood haunts on the beaches outside of Melbourne. All that heat soaks right into the bones and is good for the soul.
Alison
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lexklein said:
I could have spent hours on that beach – so cool!
I needed summer badly and didn’t even know it until I got a whiff. It’s certainly the warmth but maybe even more the spirit lift I get when the smells of the earth start coming out again. I almost feel spoiled to have gotten that boost of calmness and happiness earlier this year. I never realize how cranky and negative I get in the cold until suddenly I’m coming out of it. 🙂
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Cheryl Capaldo Traylor said:
Happy Belated Birthday! How wonderful that you got to celebrate with your family in warmer temps.
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lexklein said:
Thank you! My birthday is at such an ugly time of year, and I’m often a big crab around this time, so it was a pleasure to have had this week in February as a mini-shot of summer, by far my favorite season!
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Curt Mekemson said:
A wonderful trip back to your ‘childhood’ memories, Lexi. And a fitting birthday present to yourself. Sounds like it was a bit of a marathon getting there. I’ve driven it a few times. Like you, I really enjoy driftwood. Fun photos. –Curt
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lexklein said:
I completely love driving, so the getting there was part of the fun! (Well, I say that because most of the driving weather was good also; I do NOT relish driving in the rain, snow, or deep darkness.) Have you seen driftwood like this? It seems that most of the driftwood I’ve seen in the past is just junky old logs; this kind of blew me away.
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Curt Mekemson said:
It is somewhat unique, Lexi, in terms of reflecting whole trees, but there is lots of beautiful driftwood along the west coast, plus the logs. Give the ocean a few years to work on those logs, and even they can become ‘works of art.’
I’ve been over that highway a couple of times under tornado warnings, which always adds a bit of interest. 🙂 I like driving (seeing new areas and reacquainting myself with old), but 4-5 hours a day is usually max. I’m for a leisurely start and an early end, each day. –Curt
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AndysWorldJourneys said:
wow! Beautiful shots of the trees on the beach!
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lexklein said:
Thanks, Andy – it was a very cool place!
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Green Global Trek said:
I loved the first photo of the huge tree but even more so the ones of driftwood on the beach, even though they were caused by the erosion and therefore death of old oaks. A very sad ending for those trees, which are magnificent alive and clearly as well, in death. These photos remind me of some we took in Cuba which had a similar scene of dead trees bare as skeletons against the blue sea, but I doubt the ones we saw were oaks.
This post is so beautifully written… affection and appreciation for warmer days so wonderfully expressed and the nostalgia of childhood smells and memories.
Peta
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lexklein said:
Thanks, Peta. There is definitely an underlying sadness about the death of the old trees, but the erosion here is a natural process. The sadder part is that Hurricane Matthew did some more catastrophic damage, and there are far fewer trees here than in the past. Thanks for your nice words about the evocation of youth!
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Mabel Kwong said:
Sounds like this was a summer-like trip immersed in nature, and must be comforting to smell the smells of childhood in the air. Not all of us get to revisit the sensations that is our childhood. Places and people change so fast sometimes. That really is quite an abundance of driftwood along the coast. Outdoor exhibit seems the perfect way to describe them. They really do look very strong, strong with so many arms 😀
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lexklein said:
Those dead trees were shockingly strong! People climb all over them, and they are as firm as when they were alive (maybe even more so?). I’m very easily transported to the past, especially by smells and scenery, which can be a good and bad thing!
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Bama said:
We’ve been having cloudy days for months here in Jakarta as the end of rainy season is still supposedly a few months away. When you described that sweet scent you smelled, I was instantly reminded by the scents of the forest, the sea, and all things located far away from the city; those are the scents that would refresh the soul of any weary urban dweller.
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lexklein said:
Ugh, I’d go nuts with a few more months of gray and rain, I think. My environment is quite urban as well (but not to the extent yours is), and it was a real treat to be in a very slow, very outdoor-centric place for a week, especially in all that early warmth and sunshine!
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J.D. Riso said:
That beach reminds me a little of Deadvlei in Namibia. Haunting beauty. I’m still amazed by the wonders hidden nearby familiar places. Things we somehow miss, revealed when the time is right. They intensify the bittersweet nostalgia of your words. But all nostalgia is bittersweet, isn’t it. I enjoy reading about your road trips. I used to take so many, but since I’ve been back, I’m just trying to get used to driving again after so many years without a vehicle. Even a 2 hour drive is intimidating. Thanks for the inspiration to drag out the road map again.
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lexklein said:
I’ve seen photos of Deadvlei and it is one of many reasons Namibia is very high on my list of places to see soon. I never even thought of that as I visited Driftwood Beach in GA. And oh, yes, nostalgia is terribly bittersweet; it brings me great happiness but also painful pining at times; I have to remind myself to look forward.
I can’t imagine the re-introduction to driving after so long! My daughter, who has mainly lived in big cities, has not had a car for years and feels very awkward getting behind the wheel now. For me it’s like breathing, and even though I know it’s bad for the environment, my car is such an instrument of freedom. I do live in a more urban environment so I can walk to do daily errands, but the long-range car trip is something I don’t think I could ever give up!
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J.D. Riso said:
I went through a phase of overwhelming nostalgic pining. I think it’s part of moving through middle age. It has subsided, thankfully and I’ve turned towards the future. I don’t know if I’ll ever get back into long road trips. That remains to be seen.
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Fast Pam said:
Awww, happy birthday! That driftwood is cool. I’m surprised someone hasn’t poached it yet :-(. It rained in PHX the other day and the smell of rain on hot pavement took me back to grade school. It was a lovely way to start the day!
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lexklein said:
People seem to be remarkably respectful of the driftwood here. I mean, everyone is climbing all over it (which does not seem to hurt it; it’s incredibly strong), but nobody is hauling it away. That smell of rain on pavement is incredibly nostalgic for me! I got a hit of it once in Nepal (of all places) and was transported miles and years back to childhood.
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Jane Lurie said:
Gorgeous photos, Lex. The driftwood shots are classic in this area. Sounds like a wonderful trip.
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lexklein said:
Thanks, Jane. It was a wonderful little window into summer, my favorite season by far. And the driftwood pleased me more than I would have expected!
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Jane Lurie said:
Reminds me of the famous beach on Edisto.
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Elaine Bryan said:
Our daughter gave us the increased pleasure of our Georgia island home by being here! Elaine
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lexklein said:
The pleasure was 100% mine, Mom! Such a great week with you and dad, and I miss you already! 🙂
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awtytravels said:
Ah, the last photo sent shivers down my spine, memories of driving through Houston’s motorways with no GPS!
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lexklein said:
Oh, that’s a teeny little road, Fabrizio! I hope you got to experience some of the whoppers, too! 🙂
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Tina Schell said:
Gorgeous Lex – loved the trees. We have a similar spot near me called Botany Bay which is glorious at sunrise when the tide is in. Anyway, welcome back to the beautiful south!
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lexklein said:
Thanks, Tina! I’ll have to check out Botany Bay. I was spellbound by this beach on Jekyll. SC and GA both have such pretty coastal areas; it’s always a pleasure to visit!
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Dave Ply said:
I think the groundhog has had his say out this way, the idea of summery days still seems remote. That driftwood is pretty cool, but I bet that beach would be spooky at night…
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lexklein said:
It was even a little spooky by day! You come onto the beach through a narrow path through some pines and ferns and other rough growth, and then there’s this huge panorama of dead, whitish trees on the dark gray sand. Great for photos and playing around, though!
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Manja Mexi Movie said:
A bit late but happy birthday and many such lovely memory lane trips. I’m amazed at the driving you guys do over there. I need the most of one day to travel between my old and new countries and it’s just about some 700 km and I’m beat.
Well, that’s not so short actually. 😀
But you’ve got a HUGE country there and you just drive… I’m glad that it makes you happy.
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lexklein said:
We are driving fools! Well, at least I am, but I drive that way in Europe, too, thinking nothing of covering five countries in a few weeks. I just like seeing everything from the ground and being able to stop when I want. This trip I would have normally done by plane (cheap and short), but my dog is old and fragile, and she had to come with me.
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The Snow Melts Somewhere said:
Oh how I love your writing! You transported me there with ““School’s out!” the fresh air cried, and we flung the windows open and popped in the screens at my parents’ sunny house” and I could feel the start of a novel I’d love to read, about childhood memories. And that driftwood beach is eerily beautiful. For some reason they remind me of beached whales, so sadly in the wrong place at the wrong time.
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lexklein said:
You are so nice! Sometimes I get in the mood of a place or situation and the words just come. I sometimes toy with the idea of writing something longer about my childhood (or a barely fictionalized one) because mine was truly idyllic. Lots of time outdoors, freedom, good family, etc. Lots to be thankful for. The driftwood is both beautiful and sad; I take some comfort in knowing that the erosion process here on a barrier island is very natural.
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Liesbet @ Roaming About said:
I remember a visit to driftwood beach from our sail south along the East Coast many years ago. The simple beauty of bare trees against a blue sky, grey sand, or tranquil ocean is a photographer’s dream!
What a nice reunion you had, intermingling memories with the here and the now; repeating what made you happy as a child. How wonderful. And, so was the weather. I can see why you returned to the big city rejuvenated! Happy belated birthday and I’m glad you had another successful road trip, Lexie!
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lexklein said:
I wonder if you were on this beach on Jekyll Island or in South Caroilna (Edisto)? Both have such amazing driftwood.
Thanks for the birthday wishes. I rarely do much to celebrate, probably because it falls at such a dreary time of year, but this year was so nice! And it’s always lovely to spend time with my parents – no matter how old I get, I’m always the kid when I’m at their house, and I regress right back to my old tomboyish ways!
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twobrownfeet said:
I’ve always imagined a time warp to take us to a parallel universe or another epoch. I loved the way you used it in your seasonal transfer theory. 🙂 I wish I had access to a time warp so I could have escaped the past too months. I loved your captures of those warped trees getting sculpted by the waves. They look hauntingly beautiful.
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lexklein said:
Yes, my time warp needs are minimal – while I’d love to be wrinkled into another universe, era, or dimension, I’m quite happy with a mere week in summer temps! 🙂 The trees were so intriguing in their deteriorated beauty, especially the ones that were scrubbed clean by sun and sand.
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Bespoke Traveler said:
Greasy refinery stench, petrochemical panorama? Yikes! Though no longer in school, I still remember that heady summer vacation feeling when time seemed limitless and the days stretched out with endless, lazy, abandon. Your post had me longing to climb those gnarled trees, skip stones along that marsh pond, sleep on a hammock outdoors. Many happy returns on your birthday.
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lexklein said:
Thank you! I’m long done with school as a student, but in my years of university teaching in recent years, I STILL felt that “last day of school” feeling of pure glee and freedom! Warm, summer air always played a big part, so when I got a big hit of it on my trip, I was transported right back to those heady days.
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Sue Slaght said:
I feel warmer for just having read this and spent many minutes gazing at the extraordinary beach. I’ve never seen anything like it. It seems like an art gallery at the sea shore. The joy of your week oozes out of the post. Such a pleasure to read.
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lexklein said:
Thanks for your many nice comments, Sue! It was one of the most pleasant weeks I’ve had in a long time!
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carolinehelbig said:
You’ve introduced me to a part of the States I know very little about. Your interweaving of childhood memories in your description is simply beautiful. What a rejuvenating get away for you. The driftwood beach is awesome…a playground for every age. Perhaps I should visit my childhood home; I’d love to feel a few decades younger right now. A very belated happy birthday Lexi!
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lexklein said:
I do think going back to a childhood home or even just somewhere with your parents makes you feel younger. (I even become lazy and find myself waiting for my poor mom to wait on me hand and foot!) The place my parents live now is not even where I grew up, but being in their presence in a summery milieu just brought it all back!
The SE coast is very unique, in my opinion. It’s marshy and flat, but also full of pines and super old oaks that are incredibly picturesque. The beaches are laid-back and calm, and the pace of life is decidedly slower!
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restlessjo said:
This must seem so long ago now, in many senses! I love your photos of the mangled trees. 🙂 🙂 I hope that you are managing to get your life back after recent events.
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lexklein said:
It sure does, Jo! But at least the weather here at home is also turning summery, so all my woes can at least be drenched in a little sun. That always helps a bit!
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restlessjo said:
Big black clouds, just over my shoulder. 😦 I won’t look!
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Coral Waight said:
I know nothing about this area so this post was so interesting. A friend of mine had relatives in Houston. Do you go there at all?
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lexklein said:
We live in Houston! We moved here a year ago and are loving our new city and climate. My parents retired in coastal Georgia, hence my drive along the Gulf coast last month. Both are places I’ve come to know after decades of living in the north.
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Jessica Lacy said:
I think the groundhog has had his state out along these lines, the possibility of summery days still appears to be remote. That driftwood is entirely cool, yet I wager that shoreline would be creepy around evening time…
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lexklein said:
We are indeed in the thick of winter crud most places – never a fun time of year. I never even thought about the scary limbs out there on a dark beach, but I think you are absolutely right about that being a pretty eerie scene!
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LCD LED TV Training Institute In Pune said:
thanks for sharing with us
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lexklein said:
You are very welcome.
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