At the edge of your seat? That’s what I thought. Here in the U.S., Arkansas does not get a great deal of respect outside its own borders. As one of the states ranking lowest in education, highest in levels of obesity – and perhaps because of the stereotypes based on those two facts – one of the least-visited states in the country, Arkansas strikes some as a sad little backwater full of banjo-strumming, catfish-eating rednecks down south somewhere. Don’t believe it.
I’ve always gravitated to and been a champion of underdog locales, so I’m here to dispel some of the myths about Arkansas, one of the most naturally beautiful states in our country. Yes, it is; it really is! I started traveling to Arkansas a few years ago when my youngest son took a job in Little Rock, a place where he didn’t even want to interview but, once there, he embraced this artsy little city and threw himself into local affairs. Every time I visit, I find more to like, and it begins with the scenic appeal of the undulating, verdant topography.
The Natural State has millions of acres of national forest land, including two mountain ranges, the Ozarks and the Ouachitas. There are miles and miles of streams and rivers, the two biggest being the Arkansas and the Mississippi. Trails and campsites, dozens of lakes, caves, and even hot springs draw visitors and entertain locals alike. Boating, canoeing, fishing, and hiking are accessible almost from border to border with national and state parks galore, including one of the oldest and most visited parks in the country – Hot Springs National Park.
Arkansas’s appeal goes beyond the great outdoors, though. Its capital, Little Rock, is a quirky little city, with quaint throwbacks like a streetcar system and ’50s era drugstores and barbershops side by side with spiffy bespoke tailors and well-groomed suburban shopping malls.
Its distinctive neighborhoods are connected by a few main thoroughfares, and many are worth a drive-through and a stop – perhaps a morning farmer’s market in SoMa (the up-and-coming South Main Street area), then on to a Cajun lunch or taco in tiny Riverdale, a late afternoon latte in boho Hillcrest, dinner in the more stately Heights, then back downtown for a nightcap or some music.
Farther west, the houses are huge and the lawns are manicured, but the hilly roads are a constant, dipping and curving amid the ubiquitous tree-covered greenery, and biking and walking paths are also given all over the city, especially along the Arkansas River.
Little Rock’s compact downtown boasts an array of live music venues, including a picturesque riverfront amphitheater, as well as a few tall corporate headquarters that assert LR is a real city, the usual mix of small local cafes and fancier big restaurants, art galleries, and new tech spaces. Old warehouses have been converted into stylish lofts, chic new condos and apartments are popping up here and there, and everything is a short walk away. For those so inclined, those strolls can take in the Clinton Presidential Center and Park, as well as the impressive Heifer International headquarters building and information center.
Like any river town, Little Rock has a plethora of bridges – old railroad trestles, sparkling new spans, and my favorite (and best-named), the Big Dam Bridge. The latter is an engineering marvel to view and, even better, it’s in an area of woodsy trails and pedestrian bridges just minutes outside of downtown.
There is much more to discover in Arkansas, and I have every intention of doing just that. Tops on my list is the Crystal Bridges Museum, a glass jewel box of American art nestled into the forests of Northwest Arkansas. Nearby is the charming town of Eureka Springs, as well as Fayetteville, home of the state university and a city I’ve always wanted to visit ever since novelist Ellen Gilchrist made it the home of her main character in The Annunciation (and herself in real life). In my mind, Fayetteville is a classic college town of bookshops and art stores, cafes and boutique shops, set amid the same rolling landscape I’ve already raved about, and it sounds like a perfect little base for the museum and hot springs visit, too.
If Arkansas is languishing near the bottom of your travel list, don’t be afraid – it’s not all razorback hogs, hillbillies, and moonshine! Come on down here and check it out – it really is a great blend of small-town charm and natural beauty.
cherylcapaldotraylor said:
Wonderful photos and post! I think you may have just changed many minds about traveling to Arkansas!
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lexklein said:
I hope so! There are so many cool places that people (including me) don’t go because they have preconceived ideas about them. I wonder if I ever would have visited Arkansas if my son hadn’t moved there? I’m so glad he did; I’m having so much fun exploring this oft-overlooked state!
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shoreacres said:
I love Arkansas. I’ve been to Crystal Bridges, and written about it extensively on my blog. I’ve stayed at the Queen Wilhemina Lodge, and traveled extensively through the Wildlife Management areas of the northwest corner of the state. I’ve been to the grave of Etheree Armstrong Taylor in Magnet Cove, and been run out of that cemetery by graveyard hounds. (Etheree almost was poet laureate of Arkansas, and is the originator of the poetic form I most enjoy — search for “etheree” on my blog, and you’ll find examples).
I’ve walked Arkansas railroad tracks in pursuit of wildflowers, stayed in the best bed and breakfast in Mena (where I met a woman who belonged to the church that was featured in August: Osage County and had stories to tell about the female stars) and had the best barbeque I’ve ever encountered in Pencil Bluff.
The only thing that didn’t live up to the hype, for me, was Thorncrown Chapel, and the only place I didn’t like was Eureka Springs. My bed and breakfast there was fine — I could see the Christ of the Ozarks from the balcony, as well as white squirrels — but the town itself felt constricting and just too kitschy. I didn’t even stay for the breakfast I was due the morning after my stay there — I fled the town, and found a cup of coffee twenty miles down the road.
But generally? It was wonderful, and yes, I’m going back. In fact, I’m going to be writing about Etheree and her town on my blog in the medium future. Can you tell I like Arkansas?
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lexklein said:
I can tell! And I’m going to go back and find all your old posts. I’m leaving Little Rock tomorrow but still hoping to get to Crystal Bridges on my drive from Chicago to Houston later this summer. I will also take note of your other favorite places here and make it a real ramble!
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shoreacres said:
Don’t miss The Great Arkansas Post Office Tour, and two others that have not-so-obvious titles: “Life’s Little Vacancies” and “The Other Side of the Tracks.” Enjoy!
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lexklein said:
Thanks! Saw the P.O. one but will check the others.
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AndysWorldJourneys said:
it looks surprisingly interesting!
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lexklein said:
Glad I did a good job! I’m sure you’re itching to fly from Australia to Little Rock right this minute!
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Liesbet said:
Thanks for the timely blog, Lexie!! I read it with interest and I really wish we had more time in Arkansas next week. I do hope to get a stroll in Little Rock for a couple of hours, or even only one, when passing through at night onward to Harrison. If only Hot Springs NP was west of Little Rock. Yep, I hear you, we will have to go back one day. 🙂
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lexklein said:
Hard to believe we will be here only a week apart! I do hope you get a little time to poke around the city, and I also hope you can get a decent idea of its charms at night. Looking forward to reading about your mysterious Arkansas quest!
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Mabel Kwong said:
It is interesting to hear Arkansas stereotyped that way. It’s not a state that we here too much of here in Australia. The town does look like it has great views and it looks well put together. Interesting to hear old warehouses are being converted – it’s quite a trend it seems, to utilize any kind of space to be as productive ad possible. Nice to see Little Rock the main town isn’t sold as a commercial strip and I suppose the place represents quaint American life and culture in many ways 😊
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lexklein said:
I’m sure Arkansas is completely off the radar of people outside the U.S. There are so many more popular states and tourist destinations that draw international travelers, mostly on the coasts or nearby. All those states in the middle of the country are practically unknown, I bet! I’m sure it’s the same in your big country. We all hit Sydney, Melbourne, Cairns, Perth, and maybe venture into the middle for Alice Springs and Uluru!
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leggypeggy said:
Great post. It’s been many decades since I visited Arkansas. It’s a lovely state.
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lexklein said:
Thanks! I think I drove through it without paying much attention years ago, but it’s been fun getting to really discover different things there these last few years!
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Green Global Trek said:
It’s great when stereotypes of places are blown out of the window by reality. I remember when Ben used to live in Kansas City… everyone poo pooed it, but he loved it for the river, bridges, architecture, market place and primarily the great jazz. The first bridge photo is what reminded me of Kansas City!
From your description of it, Little Rock sounds like a very interesting city with lots to see and do ~ sometimes those out of date images we have of places are just that ~ archaic with a need for a fresh update.
Thanks for the intro.
Peta
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lexklein said:
I also like Kansas City! That used to be in my calling territory for work, and I always enjoyed visiting. There are so many places like this; I’ve lived in some big popular cities, and I loved them, but there is so much more out there where people live quite happily. Always good to remember that (for me)!
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Bama said:
When I hear the word Arkansas, I always think of Bill Clinton. Beyond that, I must admit I don’t know much about the state. New Orleans is among the places I want to see the most in the US. So one day if I do go there, while “in the area”, I probably should pay the Natural State a visit — although this might sound like pairing Seattle and Portland for a visit. Thanks for the introduction, Lex!
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lexklein said:
Yes, indeed, there is a Clinton presence in much of Arkansas. I’ve visited the Presidential Library twice (once with an avowed Republican) and we have all enjoyed the exhibits. The airport, one of the main streets, and other places bear his name, and there are many other reminders. He is well-loved in his home state.
I will be very curious to hear your thoughts on New Orleans. That would be a longer drive (to AR) than the link between the two Pacific Northwest cities, and on a limited trip to the U.S., I’d probably vote for more well-known places! I have time to do all these smaller states here, just as you can much more fully cover Indonesia than I ever could!
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Bama said:
What intrigues me is that while Arkansas is traditionally a red state, one of its most famous and respected people is a Democrat. I just looked up the results of the 1992 and 1996 U.S. presidential elections and it’s mind-boggling to see a contiguous blue ribbon from Minnesota all the way to Louisiana! (back then I wasn’t really aware of politics).
Good point on focusing on more well-known places, although I’m also tempted to visit Mesa Verde, particularly to see the ancient dwelling. Oh well, so many places, so little time, as always.
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lexklein said:
My son told me another interesting tidbit about the last presidential election. Every single house in the neighborhood around the Republican governor’s mansion had a Clinton sign!
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almeidadepaulo said:
Great pics and a interesting post!!!
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lexklein said:
Thanks! It’s been fun to get to know this place in the last few years.
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Dave Ply said:
I understand my Dad’s side of the family tree goes back to Arkansas 175 years ago – before that it’s anyone’s guess. Seems like that’d be as good an excuse as any to go check it out…
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lexklein said:
That and all my reasons, of course! 🙂 Apparently my father’s side of the family all settled in Nebraska right after they immigrated, and all I’ve done there is drive through. Oops. That’s another state that is not top of mind for a visit, but I’m sure I’d enjoy it, too!
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Sue Slaght said:
I will admit to some
preconceived notions about this state that you have certainly helped to dispel. May our travels take us to Arkansas one day.
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lexklein said:
Human beings love to generalize and stereotype (me included!), but it can be lots of fun to overturn those ideas!
(Off topic: for 2 days I’ve tried to post a comment on your blog and it just won’t show up – if/when it does eventually work, there may be multiples! – and now I can’t even get your blog to load. Are you aware of any problems?)
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Sue Slaght said:
I’ve just had a look in my spam folder but I don’t see you there. It’s a puzzle as I am getting comments from others and the site is up and running. Are you accessing through WordPress Reader? Perhaps try going to your broswer and going to https://traveltalesoflife.com/
Or try a different device to see if that makes a difference?
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lexklein said:
I don’t use the Reader – maybe I’ll try. I did try a different browser with some success (I can open it but not comment). Will keep trying!
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Sue Slaght said:
I appreciate you trying Lex. Moving to a self hosted site last year has certainly had some challenges I must say.
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Wandering Dawgs said:
Thanks for this post about a state many travelers drive through without stopping. From the Ozarks to the Arkansas Delta there is a lot of beauty to explore.
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lexklein said:
You should know! I love how much you’ve rambled through all the states. That is a dream of mine as well; I’ve done a fair amount, but in small chunks. Thanks for your comment!
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Wandering Dawgs said:
We started part time traveling with our fifth wheel eleven years ago. Before that we saw a few places in the eastern U.S. There is beauty in every state.
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thirdeyemom said:
I have never been there but like all places would love to go check it out!
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lexklein said:
You’d love the hiking possibilities!
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J.D. Riso said:
Arkansas is one of the few states I haven’t visited, but it’s not because of the stereotypes. I lived in other areas of the country, too far away to just drive over. You know I love offbeat places like this and your description only reaffirms my feeling that I’d like it. It sounds like the kind of place you don’t want people to find out about. Thanks for the tour.
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lexklein said:
I imagine you would like it, especially Little Rock and (if I am even correct about it), Fayetteville. It does seem a bit geographically isolated, which is strange because it’s in the middle of the country, but it’s sometimes described as being in the “upper South” or “lower Midwest.” That pretty much nails its problem; it’s kind of floating in there, not a big part of any region. Other than driving through decades ago, I don’t know that I would have found a reason to venture there if my adventuresome son had not landed there for a while!
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Shelley @Travel-Stained said:
Haha, I love your first line…because that’s exactly how I felt when I saw your post title! I’m afraid that I’ve bought into all those stereotypes and I’m happy to hear that it’s not just that. I can’t say that Arkansas has moved much higher up on my travel wish list now, but in truth, it was never on it in the first place. :p
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lexklein said:
Ha – gotta love your honesty! And I totally get it – if I hadn’t had a reason to stop there for any period of time in the first place, I’d be carrying all those stereotypes in my head, and I would not be making any special effort to get there beyond trying to see all the states. I’ve also told all my international readers who expressed interest that there is no need to add it to a U.S. trip – way too much else to see! But it is much prettier and nicer than I’d have imagined, and I do like places that don’t necessarily appeal to the masses, so … in my downtime between overseas trips, y’all get Arkansas! Thanks for reading beyond the title! 🙂
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darwinontherocks said:
Haha! I cannot help but laugh at the postcard 🙂 I’ve never considered Arkansas as a top destination for a US road trip and I still feel a bit underwhelmed by the natural wonders you can find there but you managed to show it under an interesting light. I love non touristy place, it’s nice from time to time. For example, I had such great memories in Wisconsin and it’s not the most appealing US state for tourism either. It’s nice to try some off-beaten tracks destination sometimes.. away from the crowds.
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lexklein said:
The interesting thing about that “postcard” is that it is actually a big sign with the middle cut out so that you can frame the bridge in there and then snap the picture yourself. It’s down along a riverwalk area that is full of beautiful plantings, sculptures, etc. Having been to Wisconsin multiple times while living in Chicago, I can attest that Arkansas is far more naturally attractive! It is still a slower and more off-the-beaten-track place, with smaller cities, and less going on overall, but the physical environment is truly gorgeous. I think most places have a few charms, and this one just has more than most people imagine, I think, even though it will never be tops on anyone’s list.
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Sue (Mac's Girl) said:
Sounds like a great place to visit!
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lexklein said:
Certainly worth some time if you are in the area. I know most people won’t make a special trip, but it really is quite an enjoyable place to spend some time.
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twobrownfeet said:
I’m always rooting for the underdog! And I love breaking stereotypes and searching for gems in places that nobody wants to visit. That’s why I love this post! I loved the old world charm of those signboards, the bursts of yellow on the wall graffiti, and the rusted iron beams of the dam. I can see the beauty in it. 🙂 And I see what you’re doing here and can truly appreciate it!
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lexklein said:
We are definitely on similar wavelengths, Cheryl! I do know perfectly well that people are not going to rearrange their vacation schedules and routes to squeeze Arkansas in there, but getting to know places like this pushes me to do exactly that in other countries and U.S. states – seek out the under appreciated or under-the-radar places where people live quite happily outside the popular parts of the world. Thanks for the support!
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Tammi Kale said:
I thoroughly enjoyed this post!
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lexklein said:
Thanks very much! I’ve had some really enjoyable trips there and wanted to give that pretty little state a nice shout-out!
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Bespoke Traveler said:
Love your captures of the Arkansas bridges. The scenery looks beautiful, but I am interested to find out if you interacted with any locals and how that was?
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lexklein said:
The people I’ve met in Little Rock are pretty much the professionals my son works with, but of course I’ve met some local shopkeepers and other service personnel, and they have all been friendly and warm. In the countryside (on my drives), the people are like country folk anywhere in the U.S. – unassuming, largely friendly, and quite content in their small part of the world. Overall, Arkansans are no different from other southerners or even many midwesterners – good, sturdy, sensible middle-of-the-country people!
Although Little Rock is somewhat well known for the Little Rock Nine black students who bravely tried to integrate Central High School in the 50s, race relations remain a mixed bag in Arkansas (as they are in many places); however, my own limited contact with, and my son’s active involvement in, LR’s black community has been nothing but positive. I fear that is not everyone’s experience.
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lisadorenfest said:
Okay, how scary is this….I’ve been swearing that I have visited 45 of the 50 states, and upon reading this post, I realize that it is only 44…I ashamedly forgot all about Arkansas. But your post happily put it (back) on my list of must visit places with its charm and its greenery. I love traveling abroad but my fondest travel memories were created in the states and this post is calling me home.
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lexklein said:
Poor little Arkansas! I know what you mean about having some of your fondest travel memories be in your home country. Travel abroad is so exotic and intriguing just by its very nature, but travel here removes some of the anxiety and hassles and lets me just focus on the scenery and destinations. When I’m not trying to figure out the currency or the road signs, I can immerse myself even more! Not to mention that the U.S. has almost a world’s worth of landscapes and types of people within its borders! It’s a pretty great place to roam!
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lisadorenfest said:
It is indeed …from sea to shining sea🗽🌉
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Madhu said:
Like many of your readers, my knowledge of Arkansas is limited to mentions connected to the Clintons. You make some compelling reasons for a visit. It seems unlikely I’ll find the time to get off the beaten track If and when I do visit the US, even though I am a fan of underdog locales myself. Happy to follow you along virtually on your explorations meanwhile 🙂
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lexklein said:
Although Arkansas and Little Rock don’t have the cachet of many of the U.S.’s larger cities (or more famous small ones), it’s kind of fun to bring these to the attention of the wider world on occasion. In between my farther-flung journeys, I am always driving or flying somewhere within our own borders here (my kids alone are in three different time zones!), so if I want to keep the blog fresh, I have to feature some smaller treasures sometimes. Glad you have the interest in following along!
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Tina Schell said:
Great post Lex, had no idea!! Looks really beautiful. I laughed at SOMA – we visited several cities this summer and each one had an “up and coming” area full of arts and artisans, lots of wall art and a funky, formerly awful location. I guess everyone is capitalizing on the success of the early implementations. I know Asheville NC’s is terrific but don’t know if it was early or late to the party.
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lexklein said:
Thanks, Tina. In the last few weeks, I have (strangely) run into a number of people who have raved (much more than I) about Arkansas! I’m onto the new “it” destination – haha. I know what you mean about the formerly down-and-out parts of cities springing back to life. It’s a positive thing for many reasons, but it does have ramifications for the people who get pushed out of their once affordable neighborhoods after they get trendy and hip. Tough balancing act for cities.
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Tina Schell said:
PS. forgot to mention I loved the bridges!
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lexklein said:
🙂
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restlessjo said:
You make me want to hop a bus right now. But there’s a little matter of an ocean in the way. 🙂 🙂
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lexklein said:
Jo, I’m quite sure there are countless direct flights from all over the UK and Europe to Little Rock, Arkansas, at amazing low prices! Enough excuse-making from you! 🙂
Seriously, thanks for buying my sell job, and if you ever DO find yourself driving around the mid-southern U.S., give it a shot!
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restlessjo said:
Will do! 🙂
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wheresjwo said:
I have always been curious about Little Rock. Now I know a little more, thanks to your post. I would love to see the Clinton Center.
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lexklein said:
I found the library pretty interesting. I am not much of a politics buff, but some of the history of the era in general was cool to see. The physical museum is very attractive. I was just in LR again last week and enjoyed it as usual! You’ll have to go someday!
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Agness of Fit Travelling said:
I would definitely love to visit and explore Arkansas as soon as possible. How many days would you recommend staying there, Lex?
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lexklein said:
I think a day in Little Rock is enough, but I have just spent two days in the northwest part of the state (Bentonville and Fayetteville), and now I’m enamored of that area as well! Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art is amazing, and Fayetteville is a cute college town. The hilly, forested terrain is as gorgeous there as it is in the other parts of the state I’ve seen. Arkansas is not exactly in the mainstream part of the country, but if you do get there, 3-4 days is surely plenty. Enjoy!
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terrybalmain said:
Arkansas looks great from this side of the Downunder world, adore the old bridge
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lexklein said:
The old bridges (and that huge dam/bridge combo) are very cool. I like Arkansas more and more every time I visit!
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