Tags
Bryan, countryside, France, Houston, politics, reflecting, road trip, rural, Sunday drive, Texas, Weekly Photo Challenge, Williams Jennings Bryan
It’s a summer weekend several decades ago, and my dad is seeking company for his customary Sunday activity: a drive in the country. As usual, I am the only taker. Sometimes we look at houses, occasionally we explore new areas, but most of the time we just drive out into the country and admire the rustic fences, the barns, the crops, and above it all, the sweeping sky. We chat or we don’t, and we inevitably end up at a Dairy Queen for a twist cone at the end of the day. These yawning days are among my favorite childhood memories.
***
Flash forward, and there is still something about an unscheduled Sunday that cries out for a jaunt in the car. Yesterday I answered the call, and we loaded the vehicle with the dog, some water, and a few snacks, and headed northwest from Houston to enjoy a spectacular spring day on the road.
Our destination is the perfect distance away (less than two hours) and has an additional attraction; a town called Bryan, Texas, named after my distant relative, William Jennings Bryan. Three-time presidential candidate (and perpetual loser), secretary of state, famed orator, and attorney both admired and ridiculed, Bryan is a direct ancestor on my father’s side of the family. Hailing from Illinois originally, but a long-time resident of Nebraska (where my grandfather was born), Bryan somehow left his mark quite deeply in Texas, where he owned a winter home and farm.
The journey itself ends up being the enchantment. The sky is a blue bed of white puffballs, and the early crops are a cheerful lemon-green. Rural fences always rope me in, and today is no exception. We see white pickets, split rails, and dark wood dividers on both sides of the road. We get off the main highway as often as possible and keep swerving off onto the berm to photograph the ranch gates, both simple and elaborate, along the way. We follow the web of farm-to-market (FM) routes, observing the network of roads that physically connect rural America to our large cities.
My husband eats a Texas-sized beef brisket sandwich at a popular BBQ joint at 11 am, halfway through the drive out, and is still sated when we arrive home in the late afternoon. We stop at a famous rest stop/gas station to fuel up at bargain prices and peruse the outlandish array of paraphernalia available there, from fresh fudge to hot dogs, homemade kolaches to every bag snack you’ve ever heard of, stuffed animals to camouflage gear, and the “cleanest restrooms in America.”
The historic town of Bryan is closed down on this Sunday afternoon, which is fitting given William Jennings’ religious bent later in life. We wander through the downtown streets for a few blocks anyway and then load the old pooch back in the car and retrace our route back to the big city.
We’ve accomplished little, but we’ve temporarily cleared our heads in all that fresh air and sprawling land. Unfortunately, mine is now spinning with thoughts, reflecting on presidents and populations, of byways and barriers. This is what most of America looks like geographically, even as the majority of our population moves into urban environments.
In Bryan’s day and our recent past, this dichotomy did not seriously threaten our cohesion as a nation; in fact, those FM roads connected more than just farmers and our city tables. But now our differences, the other kinds of fences we have put up at home and around the world, have helped to create the calamity of our current leadership.
While I was piloting and pondering, France was rejecting a vision of the world where a nation can only house one type of person, where only the market-makers matter, and where outside interference can amplify those differences and scare people into a frightening, reactionary decision. We were not so careful or clear-headed here, but my hope is that the strong French results will somehow nudge the world back onto the kind of road that connects rather than divides.
Mabel Kwong said:
Nothing like a sunny drive on a lazy day. Never too early for a good lunch too. Haha, are the restrooms really cleaner out there? It makes sense since not many people pass by and you’d think cleaning actually goes on 😊 Very interesting to see what’s going on in France, and hopefully a step in the right direction too.
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lexklein said:
Actually, that rest stop is on the main highway and MANY people go by. For some reason, they built huge, modern bathrooms and their point of pride is keeping them spotless. I don’t know if you’ve taken a U.S. road trip, but we cannot say the same for too many of our public restrooms! And yes, here’s hoping that France has set good things in motion.
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Mabel Kwong said:
Then it is amazing – so many people pass by and the restrooms are still spotless. I’ve never take a road trip across the U.S but hope to some day. Would be very interested to sample the food at the rest stops 😀
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lexklein said:
Mabel, you would love a U.S. road trip and I bet you would have lots of American blogging friends who would host you along the way (including me!).
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Shelley @Travel-Stained said:
I don’t think anyone outside of North America understands the appeal of the Sunday drive…and the perfect 2 hour drive time. 😉 I also totally resonated with the Dairy Queen, and you now have me craving a Skor blizzard big time (no Dairy Queen here in Korea). We were also completely relieved by the France election results – I can’t imagine a world where we have so many of these reactionary politicians in power.
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lexklein said:
It guess the combination of open land and a car culture beckons people out on the road for no reason other than a pointless drive. (A commenter below says this was a thing in Australia, too, which makes sense.) Ahhhh, the Blizzard – a worthy competitor for your beloved gelato?! 🙂 I think that’s a third category – not really ice cream or gelato, but soooo good!
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J.D. Riso said:
The Sunday drive is as American as the road trip. But so is the innate guilt at “not accomplishing much”. Sundays, in my opinion, should be for Zen-like activities. Things done simply for the pleasure and not for a result. Thanks for the nostalgia. No car here, so it’s been a loooong time since I indulged in such delights.
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lexklein said:
I totally agree on a day that is for nothing but chilling out. It’s funny – I’ve taken so many road trips in Europe (planning another 2-weeker late this summer!), but I’ve never stopped to think that maybe it’s just vacationers with rental cars poking around out there. In DC, I never touched a car, but I have to say I missed the freedom for leaving the city (never missed it in the city itself).
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J.D. Riso said:
Where are you going to visit, or is it a secret? Lots of Europeans have cars and go on road trips, but we didn’t want the hassle, because we always live right in the city where parking is a challenge. Train travel makes up for the lack of road trips. That’s an atmosphere you have very little of in the US.
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lexklein said:
No secret! Our terrain will cover your chunk of the world – parts of the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Austria, maybe some Hungary and Slovenia (dying to get my husband to Ljubljana). No set route yet, but that’s the general area. I will be re-reading parts of your blog, you can be sure – and if we are in Prague itself, I’d be up for a coffee or drink if you are! That’s far in the future (for me), but I’ll keep you posted! (I love the trains and am a little torn about car vs. train for parts of this itinerary.)
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J.D. Riso said:
Yes, of course. If I’m around then. Feel free to email me with your dates and if you want suggestions, especially with Slovakia and Czech Rep. Restaurants, offbeat sights, great hiking in Slovakia. I’m planning to do some hiking here soon IF the weather finally gets better, so I should know some good trails here too.
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lexklein said:
I will do that for sure!
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lisadorenfest said:
The images from you Sunday jaunt are making me long for another US Road Trip. I miss the endless Plains. Magnificent. With regard to your relative William Jennings, I’ll never forget watching Inherit The Wind as a teenager and thinking – ‘what a different world it was back then’ but now here we are in 2017 and it feels like we’ve come full circle…
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lexklein said:
Pretty shocking to make that connection between the Fundamentalist-Modernist conflict of the 1925 trial and what we are facing yet again today. I agree with you – you’d think we’d be past that. Not fun to know that my family member was on the wrong side of that argument, in my opinion, but WJB had some good traits as well (he was a peace advocate and cared about the common man).
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Green Global Trek said:
This is so beautifully wrtten I feel as though I just read a chapter in a good book. I love the description of Sunday drives with your father.Endless miles and road trips definitely have a soothing quality on the soul.
Peta
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lexklein said:
Well, thank you, Peta! Those were peaceful, happy times, and I love remembering them. I am still getting in a car with my dad – in a couple of weeks, my parents will fly down here and we plan a road trip to Arkansas to see both a fantastic new-ish museum and one of my sons! I do love the open road for clearing the head!
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Anna said:
It’s an Aussie thing too. My fondest memories are of mum and dad driving us kids on a Sunday arvo to various places out of the city.
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lexklein said:
That makes sense to me! You have the same kind of unpopulated expanses of land there that we have in many spots in our country. We were a road trip kind of family, too, and I have remained very fond of that activity!
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Liesbet said:
I am still getting used to the long distances here and seem to only be willing to drive to a destination two hours away, when we have visitors. 🙂 That being said, if the drive is part of the excitement and attraction, great! I love the wide and extensive skies and landscapes and zooming through them, like in Nebraska. In this political climate, I feel immersing ourselves in the greatness of the land is the perfect escape. 🙂
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lexklein said:
I love that you love Nebraska! Most people think driving through all those endless corn fields is boring. I think it’s meditative and soothing! For a Sunday drive, I’ll limit the getting-there time to 2 hours, but I will also hop in the car for incredibly long drives and think nothing of it (I am weird) – I put 4000 miles on my car in one month when I moved here in late February/early March!
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Liesbet said:
We have been known to drive all the way down to Florida for a short two-week house sit, because we were sick of the cold in New England. And, for the same reason, we drove across the country. Except, this time, the weather in Northern California was a bit disappointing this winter… We don’t mind the distances, if it has a good purpose. The biggest problem was that we had no cell coverage for most of the cross country trip, so it was incredibly difficult for Mark to work.
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lexklein said:
No cell or internet coverage would be rough (especially for him and his business)! I’m with you: if there’s a good reason to drive that long, I’ll do it. Otherwise, we will stick to shorter outings!
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gallivance.net said:
Lexie, when I was a kid Sunday drives were a staple as well, but we ended up at the A&W Root Beer Stand. And your post reminds me that no one makes BBQ brisket like they do in Texas. I miss it to this day. I don’t know if you’re a Jerry Jeff Walker fan, but he has a song about drives in Texas: The Pickup Truck Song. Listen for “let the pickup just wander around.”
~James
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lexklein said:
That’s great, James! He also mentions Luckenbach, a little town near Fredericksburg, TX, both of which we like! I think there are many of us who remember doing this as kids; I still have that urge on a really free day, and we are excited to have new territory for these excursions.
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dave ply said:
I can’t say going on a drive just to be driving and ogling has a lot of draw for me, but from here it is a 90-minute drive to the coast or a 90-minute drive to Mt. Hood going the other way – both worthy destinations for a nice long walk.
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lexklein said:
Excellent location, Dave! Not too many places give you that kind of topographic range, I bet. We are about 50 miles from the coast but have not explored that way yet. Coming up soon, I hope!
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LivingTheQLife said:
We also grew up with the tradition of going on Sunday drives, usually into the countryside where we would see a completely different world that our suburban lives. It sounds like you had a wonderful time.
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lexklein said:
So many of us have these Sunday drive memories! We did have a great day, and we look forward to exploring in all directions in the coming months.
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LivingTheQLife said:
☺
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Sue Slaght said:
I felt as though I was riding along with you. In my growing up days Sunday drives were common place. My Dad loved to check the crops.
I continue to watch the goings on in your country and breathe deeply. Very deeply.
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lexklein said:
Thanks, Sue. Soon I may have to breathe very deeply of a potent anesthetic that will not allow me to read the news for several more years!
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Anna Love said:
Wow, nice countryside, but again it’s Texas!
http://www.annalovelife.com/saud-beach-pagudpud-ilocos-norte
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lexklein said:
Thanks – come visit sometime!
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shoreacres said:
Ah, yes. The Sunday drive. In Iowa in the 1950s, that meant heading out on the gravel roads to look at the corn (and occasional soybean field) and ending with an A&W root beer float or a Dairy Queen twist cone topped with that frozen chocolate shell. And if it wasn’t a Sunday drive, it was my dad saying on Saturday morning, “Want to go to the dump?” It was, of course, a ruse. As soon as we were out of sight of the house (and my mother) he’d say, “Which direction?” I’d choose, and off we’d go: “sploring,” as I called it.
Buc-ee’s! Who doesn’t love Buc-ee’s? It’s not a gas station; it’s a destination. If you haven’t tried the Buc-ee’s nuggets, yet — do it. Even if you only buy a bag, eat yourself silly through half, and throw the rest away because you know you really shouldn’t be eating such things, they’re worth a try. I’ve been taking photos here and there, and some day intend to write a Buc-ee’s travelogue.
There is one thing interesting about Buc-ee’s. They were hiring at the store at the intersection of 288 and TX 35 a while back, and the sign out front proclaimed: $15/hour minimum, two weeks’ paid vacation, and benefits. There’s a reason their staff is so committed to keeping those restrooms clean. Also, every food item that’s sold in the store is taste-tested by the owner himself.
As for barbeque, here’s a little treat for both you and your husband: one of the best songs ever about brisket and ribs. It’s a listing of Texas bbq joints set to music, with a humorous twist in the last line. It’s off Clover and Rachel Carroll’s CD called “Texas Routes.”
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lexklein said:
I knew you and a few other people would recognize Buc-ee’s! It truly is a destination in itself. I was introduced to it in 2013 when my daughter lived here, and I could not wait to show my husband. We’ve just played the song, too – ha, that’s great! – we might have to play it in slo-mo to catch all those names although we did recognize a few!
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shoreacres said:
Here’s a link to their CD, “Texas Routes.” It’s great road music, and what makes it even more special is that the songs are interspersed with snippets of interviews with old-time, native Texans. I think you’d like it!
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Tina Schell said:
I have 4 brothers and I’m sure there were times that my parents absolutley HAD to get us out of the house and we couldn’t afford much in the way of entertainment so a ride in the car it was. I distinctly remember my dad finding stretches with rolling hills which he’d drive up and down to give us “tummy tickles”. Of course mom would always complain about his driving too fast LOL. Thanks for the fond reminder LEX, a lovely post
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lexklein said:
And thank you for the reminder of those hill-topping stomach flutters! In western Pennsylvania, we certainly had our share of hills and my dad, like yours, liked to sail over the crests. When I think back, we used to hope our heads would hit the car ceiling (no seat belts, of course – yikes); how times have changed!
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darwinontherocks said:
The Sunday drive is a weird concept to me and I love the idea. I think here people are not used to drive just for the pleasure and especially not 2 hours 😀 haha!
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lexklein said:
I’m glad you can sort of see the appeal; I’m sure it sounds crazy to some people! 🙂
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darwinontherocks said:
It’s more pleasant to drive in the wide american roads than in the congested windy and singly track poorly maintained British roads 😉
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twobrownfeet said:
I truly enjoyed reading this post, Lex! It had ‘dad’, blue skies, long drives, history, and the current political scene — all in one page. 🙂 I think, order and ‘better sense’ will eventually prevail. Until then, we’ve got to make do with long drives or in our case –long walks. 🙂
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lexklein said:
Thanks! I agree – long anything out in nature is a good antidote to the current world order!
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wrightsolution said:
Great tale. I miss going out for a wander… not long now!
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lexklein said:
You should have some great wandering available soon – both in the car and on foot! I’m sure you are really looking forward to that!
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rommel said:
Image are great, but your words are so descriptive it paint much more better pictures. Im sorrounded with walls, but as I read I can feel the warmth and see the beautiful blue sky with your words. Well done.
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lexklein said:
Thanks! Funny you should compliment my words … I just read your latest post and loved how you said the fields of flowers looked like something out of a children’s book – that was spot on!
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Bespoke Traveler said:
William Jennings Bryan was your distant relative?! Wow! Sundays are fantastic for lazy drives on backroads where all sorts of inconsequential but brilliant little things can be discovered. Your musings about fences and the sort of communities we are currently building is spot on.
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lexklein said:
Thanks for all your nice comments! Yes, WJB is a direct ancestor; I even have a great-uncle named William Jennings Bryan The Whatever whom I knew well when I was growing up. I do love a country ride – lots to take in and lots of space and time to just think.
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Madhu said:
Iran did it too last week, which is huge! I was beginning to give up hope.
Thank you for that wonderful ride Lex, and for your wise reflections. I envy you your vast countryside. Driving in India is quite a nightmare.
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lexklein said:
Maybe the tide is turning … at least in a few places.
Glad you enjoyed a small glimpse of our wide open spaces; I can imagine driving in India must be very frenetic! You will simply need to add “U.S. Roadtrip” to your travel wish list!
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Neha said:
Really nice and pleasant article
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lexklein said:
Thanks! It was a really nice and pleasant day, so I’m glad I captured some of that.
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AndysWorldJourneys said:
you need space for a sunday drive. it’s a lovely notion. plenty of space and places to drive to and around here but… i work sundays! 😦
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lexklein said:
Well, you’ll just have to make it a Saturday drive or a Whateverday drive! I’d love to do some good road trips in Australia.
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Manja Mexi Movie said:
I agree with the closing sentiment, of course, and enjoy the puffy views, but my attention was drawn to this: “homemade kolaches.” I have never seen this word used in English, only in my native Slovenian where it means dessert or cake or pastry (written: “kolač”). The same word exists also in Croatian and Serbian (possibly Czech?). I wonder who it was that introduced it into English and what specifically it means to you.
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lexklein said:
In my experience, kolaches (spelled many other ways, depending on the nationality of the baker!) are made with a soft dough wrapped around all sorts of stuff! In Texas, they can have meat fillings; in western Pennsylvania, they had sweet fruit inside, and I’ve even seen ones with cheese. Slovaks, Czechs, Hungarians, Serbs and Croats, and on and on … many people claim this food, I think! I don’t like any of them! (The food, not the nationalities! 🙂 )
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