After almost a month in Houston, I am surprised and not surprised at how quickly I have regained my happiness. Houston is one of those cities – and Texas one of those states – that elicit sneers and grunts from those who don’t know them. I endured my share of puzzled reactions when we excitedly announced that we would be leaving Chicago and Washington, DC, for the Bayou City, so my goal is to surprise my readers with some of the great things about my new hometown.
One of my favorite first impressions is the incredible outdoor link between my neighborhood and the city. Buffalo Bayou Park is a green space stretching for about two miles from the Montrose neighborhood to the edge of downtown Houston. There are bike paths, walking trails, a skate park, kayak rentals, disc golf, a dog park, and more, all nestled into a ribbon of land on both sides of Buffalo Bayou. Houstonia magazine called the park, finished less than two years ago, “Houston’s new front porch,” and that it is; from morning to night, people ply the paths, sit on the benches, and otherwise savor the outdoors here, just in front of the skyscrapers that stretch for block after block downtown.
My new morning routine is becoming a short walk or drive to the park, followed by a brisk hike, jog, or bike ride within the green confines. I can spend 30 minutes, an hour, or longer winding my way through the spring wildflowers on the banks of the bayou, watching dogs frolic in the Ritz Carlton of dog enclosures, or passing under the Waugh bat bridge, where thousands of Mexican freetail bats emerge and soar against the city backdrop each evening. I can stay low and close to the water’s edge and disappear into nature, or I can ride higher on the paths, closer to street level, and stop at any of a number of sculptures, fountains, gardens, or memorials.
One of the coolest surprises here is that the park was designed with the knowledge that it would flood. In Houston’s tropical climate, rains can be heavy, and the bayous and streets flood numerous times each year. Engineers took into account the fact that waters would rise up to and occasionally above the top of the bayou banks, so they placed electrical lines above the floodplain and used materials like raw concrete and galvanized steel that could hold up under water.
The lower paths are often sandy after a downpour, but the walkways and bike lanes were designed to be easy to sweep clean. Buffalo Bayou Park is built along a natural body of water that is an integral part of the city’s drainage system, so park planners also planted native grasses, trees, and wildflowers whose roots would absorb water underground.
Beyond the practical results of all this planning, the design and flora create a natural habitat for wildlife and make the park feel like a real refuge from urban life. The biggest and most wonderful surprise of all, though, is the moment when you crest one of the graceful park bridges and see before you a bucolic, riparian scene: a trio of kayaks slipping away from a rough, natural shoreline, framed by flowering trees and bordered by shady pathways – all reflected in the shiny spires of the city skyline. The city and nature coexist here in the most surprising and wonderful way, and this park has fast become one of my favorite parts of my new life here in Houston.
ME BE in Panama said:
Spent time in Houston last year–great downtown, restaurants, attractions etc. Keep ’em coming!
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lexklein said:
Thanks – I will! It really is a fun town, isn’t it? I’m worried about eating my way through this place; there are SO many great restaurants, cafes, bars, and food trucks that I’m afraid I’ll need to walk way more than the few miles in the park to keep the pounds off!
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twobrownfeet said:
A month already? Time sure flies! Had I not been following your posts, I’d have thought it to be quite an experience to keep changing cities. 🙂 I really love those walking paths and bursts of green. Being able to walk/cycle on a green trail has always been an excellent getaway for me and the best way to explore to a new city. 🙂
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lexklein said:
You have been lucky as well to have nature close to your city; in fact, I am jealous that you have walking and biking paths that even go uphill! It’s very flat here, but I’m not complaining!
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Sue Slaght said:
So happy to hear you are settling in so well. Love your positive attitude. Perhaps the tourism board of Houston will be calling after this lovely review.
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lexklein said:
Ha – wouldn’t that be nice?! I could poke around and write and fill up the travel kitty all at once! I had to have a positive attitude this time, Sue – the last move just never got off the ground with my bellyaching. Learned my lesson.
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Alison and Don said:
This move sounds like it is a lot more enjoyable than your last one. And the park is beautiful. It reminds me a little of the (man-made) lake in Canberra that has attracted all kinds of native bird and animal life. I think if I lived in Houston I’d be at that park a lot too.
Alison
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lexklein said:
By a factor of 10 times or more! Haha – really, DC and I just never gelled although I began to appreciate its charms near the end. I really think it was less DC’s fault than our living situation, in which we were squeezed into a very temporary place. Cities all over the world are learning to soften the urban environment with the natural tools they have or with man-made versions, and I think it’s great. I love cities and their hardscape, but I also need the reprieve nature offers.
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J.D. Riso said:
So nice to hear that you feel at home again. It’s too bad that the mention of Houston and Texas inspires disdain from people in other regions. I’d rather hang out with rednecks than a bunch of pretentious “intellectuals” any day. I could feel your unease in DC. Talk about a soulless city. Anyway, your new hangout looks fabulous. Love how it merges with nature in a non-invasive way. Welcome home. 🌞
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lexklein said:
That merging of urban hardscape and nature is what I really love. I do love cities, but I like the softening effect of the green space also. I think DC lacks soul partly because it is filled with transient people and partly because those people are politicians! Here, people are proud of their city and state, and even if I disagree with them politically or otherwise, I like their attachment. It gives the place some heft. (And actually, Houston is pleasingly liberal and very diverse – another nice surprise.)
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Green Global Trek said:
So great to read this and know you have found your favorite place for refuge and recharging. It is refreshing to discover parks that are very well designed ~ encompassing different areas each with different and unique feel to them. I really like the photo of the runner, alongside the river, with the skyline behind it.
Nice to hear you are settling in well after the move Lex!
Thanks for educating me as I have only been to Austin in Texas and know nothing of Dallas…. so far so good! 🙂
Peta
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lexklein said:
Well, you’ll have to come visit then! Houston has a hot, wet, tropical vibe like the places you’ve been living, so you’d feel at home! Austin is a really fun town and I like it a lot, but I am even fonder of very big cities and all they offer, so we’ve landed in a good place. Culture, great food, warmth, some good outdoor options make me a pretty happy gal these days.
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restlessjo said:
I can’t imagine anyone not being excited at having a new city to explore, but it looks like you’ve found yourself a gem! I seem to remember bits of what you’ve shown us but had no idea that it was so beautifully thought out and constructed. I’m pinching it for my Monday walks, if that’s ok? Let’s show the world Houston! 🙂 🙂 I love the contrast between the skyscrapers and nature.
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lexklein said:
Pinch away, Jo – I am flattered you would like to use it. I love the contrast, too; I love big cities and all they offer, and getting a side of green space makes this one all the better.
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Anna said:
Houston must be warmer than Chicago right? That alone is a good enough reason to live there in my opinion! I froze my tits off in Chicago! Lol
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lexklein said:
That gave me a good morning laugh! Yes, Houston and Chicago are just about polar opposites in terms of weather. I know I’ll have months where I am pretty damn hot here, but I still think I’ll prefer that to 26 years of ridiculously cold (and long) Chicago winters. We shall see …
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travtrails said:
I remember the Bat bridge and how we, the people, waited patiently for the bats to emerge….link to my post on Houston’s Waugh Bat Bridge……Nothing Batty About It ..http://travtrails.com/2011/04/29/716/
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lexklein said:
These bats definitely come out at least sometimes! I’m not much for bat watching myself, but my daughter has watched the bats emerge here, and I’ve seen the ones in Austin. Sorry you missed them!
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Mabel Kwong said:
Beautiful city you live in, Lex. It sounds like you can easily get carried away with your walks into the city each morning, and that there are different paths on different sides of the river. I’m interested as to what wlidlife roams those greeneries. Maybe a few birds, some furry animals…
When I first saw these photos, I immediately thought of my city Melbourne. It looks almost exactly the same. The Yarra River lines the city of Melbourne and at a distance away from the city centre, it looks exactly like these photos 😀
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lexklein said:
Interesting to read that your pretty city of Melbourne looks like this, too! The wildlife other than the birds stays pretty hidden. There are swallows, hawks, the famous bats, and other birds. There are lots of fish, including big alligator gars, and some scary snakes (mostly timid, according to my reading!), as well as the usual small, furry creatures, like squirrels, and even some beavers!
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Shelley @Travel-Stained said:
It’s so true that the mention of Texas elicits that reaction. I must admit, I’m guilty of it myself, but when I visited friends in Dallas a few years back, I really enjoyed myself and the city itself. Good food, incredibly friendly people and gorgeous blue skies. It’s so lovely to have a piece of nature so close by, and it sounds like it’s quickly becoming part of your routine, in a good way. 🙂
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lexklein said:
A lot of what turns off non-Texans is what makes it an interesting place to me: a strong sense of place, great pride, and a larger-than-life mentality. But it’s the smaller stuff that keeps me interested on a daily basis. I do crave warmth, and I like the combo of big-city options and intimate neighborhoods and parks. So far, so good – hope it keeps me happy a while!
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Bama said:
Wonderful city planning! I can’t help but to point out this fact considering how bad cities are planned in Indonesia (or in the case of a well-planned city, its development rarely follows the city plan). It looks and feels refreshing to have a real park, or a front porch, this green and inviting. Glad to know that you’ve settled in well, Lex.
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lexklein said:
Thanks, Bama! I think cities worldwide are trying to re-think development and work a green space plan into their urban cores. In Asia, some cities just grew so quickly that things spiraled out of control before the city planners could get a grip on them, I think! Maybe it’s not too late. In recent years, many U.S. cities have torn out unsightly industrial areas near the downtown areas (Chicago’s Millennium Park is a great example) and transformed their appearance and functions. Even here, this new park is only a few years old even though the bayou has always run through there.
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Bama said:
That’s true. Its proximity to Singapore has helped Jakarta (and its people) to rethink of what kind of city it will be in decades to come. Of course, we’re not trying to copy our neighbor in the sense of how it looks. But we can surely learn about how to make a city more livable. Tomorrow, Jakartans will vote in the gubernatorial election run-off between someone who has done so many good things for the city but comes from a double minority background (a Chinese and Christian), and a pragmatic politician who only cares about getting elected. Hopefully the city won’t fall victim to the wrong kind of populism.
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leggypeggy said:
I don’t know Houston, but I do know Dallas, and I like it. So I think your move is proving to be a good thing. Enjoy.
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lexklein said:
Thanks, Peggy! I am already so relaxed and happy here after a short time, so I have high hopes for the long-term (or at least medium-term) move. I like Dallas, too, but I’m partial to Houston’s somewhat more eccentric personality. What’s going to be fun is exploring throughout the state, which is big enough to encompass quite a few different personalities and environments!
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AndysWorldJourneys said:
interesting – the summer must be tough though, I was there in oct many years ago and it was still stifling heat
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lexklein said:
Yep – all my joy at a warm and sunny spring may devolve into puddles of sweat and heat exhaustion come summer, but I am ready for it! After 26 years in Chicago’s freezing winters and springs, I think I’m ready to go to the other side!
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Liesbet said:
What a wonderful surprise! I really like and appreciate the way parks have been created in some US cities, especially along bodies of water. This scene reminds me a bit of Austin. So glad you found a nice refuge already and that you are settling in quickly and comfortably. Could you walk from your neighborhood through the park into downtown?
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lexklein said:
Thanks, Liesbet! Yes, I can walk the whole way through the park to downtown. It’s only about 2.5 miles, including the walk to the park and then the walk into the city. A very easy bike ride and a decent walk also. I have not lived in many cities where there are quiet neighborhoods within very close proximity to downtown areas, and I am so happy we chose this close-in neighborhood! We can walk to dinner, to the post office, pharmacy, grocery store, etc, but it does not feel dirty or frantic the way very urban living can. Life is good!
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The Snow Melts Somewhere said:
Lovely post! I really would love to visit Houston one day, sounds like a great mix. The pictures and description of the park remind me a bit of the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur in Buenos Aires!
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lexklein said:
Well, let me know if you’re ever this direction, and I’ll give you a tour! They say Houston is a better place to live than to visit, but we’ve tried to show visitors a good time and so far, they are liking it!
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The Snow Melts Somewhere said:
I’m sure it would be great for visiting, too! 🙂
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apklizard.xyz said:
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lexklein said:
Thank you for reading!
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Madhu said:
Houston sounds wonderful, especially without the baggage of preconceptions. Look forward to more virtual explorations with you. And hope to catch up with your Cuba travelogue soon.
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lexklein said:
Aha – here is where you got caught up! Glad I could find it and un-spam you! I should remember this approach to new places when I travel, too. Sometimes I don’t want to go somewhere, or I do go with negative preconceptions, and it can ruin the trip. Moving here to an under-appreciated place and loving it will help me keep those blinders off for other places as well. (Not too many Cuba posts to use up your time – maybe 2? – hope you enjoy them when you have some down time.) Very nice to see you back in WordPress-Land!
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dave ply said:
About all I’ve seen of Houston is the airport on several occasions, and haven’t experienced much of it but the humidity. Glad to hear it has an awesome park, places like that make a big difference.
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lexklein said:
I think I’m still in the honeymoon stage. The humidity has been quite tolerable (it’s even been breezy and crisp on occasion), and almost every day has been sunny since I arrived. Maybe my weather luck has changed and I’m about to bring Houston the most pleasant summer it’s had in a while! 🙂
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Ranthambore Jeep Safari said:
So glad to hear you are settling in so well. Cherish your uplifting disposition. Maybe the tourism leading body of Houston will call after this dazzling survey…
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lexklein said:
Thank you! Maybe they’ll hire me – that would be an exciting development … until then, I’ll just keep enjoying the city and writing about it here!
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gallivance.net said:
I’m glad to hear that your new home suits you Lexie. We lived in Dallas (twice) and in that time, I visited Houston probably once every couple of weeks. For many, Texas is an acquired taste, but with the right attitude, which you seem to have, the place and people slowly seep into your bones. One good thing about Houston is that there are enough imports that can make sure that all those big-hat Texans don’t take themselves too seriously. I’m sure that you’ll enjoy your time there. ~James
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lexklein said:
I think I acquired the taste and it seeped into my bones when I lived here in the 80s and when my daughter spent a few years here from 2013-15. I’m a convert for sure, but this is really real now, with a house and a feeling of settling down for a while. And not only are there “imports” from many other states, but Houston is now one of the most internationally diverse cities in the U.S., and that’s pretty fun, too!
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awtytravels said:
Hey Lexi
it does indeed sound enticing… [broken record]Is Part II going to feature NASA?[/broken record] 🙂
Fabrizio
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lexklein said:
Hahaha, Mr. One-Track Minded! Maybe Part V? Actually, we almost went to visit NASA this past weekend but changed our minds. I promise to go eventually and report back!
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awtytravels said:
Argh! The suspense is killing me…
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lisadorenfest said:
I am delighted to hear that you are loving your new home and that your pup is being treated to the Ritz Carlton of dog enclosures. My favorite kind of parks are those that celebrate their nativeness and Buffalo Bayou Park does not disappoint. I can see why you like to both wile away and while away the hours on your new front porch. Houston’s mix of spring flowers and city towers is calling to me. Gorgeous pics
Enjoy the cool evenings in the sub-tropics! I need a sweater when the temps dip below 24 degrees celsius 🙂
PS. The photos are magnificent and I love that Jaume Plensa sculpture!
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lexklein said:
One of my greatest joys is that I rarely need a sweater outdoors here! I, too, am frequently chilly and here the issue is the INDOORS, where buildings and even homes are kept at refrigerator levels of coldness. Do you know Jaume Plensa’s work? The “Tolerance” sculptures here in the park are quite impressive, day and night. I love their look and their message.
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lisadorenfest said:
I know what you mean. It was FREEZING indoors in Singapore. I needed a parka to ride the MRT.
I became familiar with Jaume Plensa’s work in Chicago (Crown Fountain) and then again while visiting Singapore (Singapore Soul); a piece that allowed me to immediately recognized his work in your post. ‘Tolerance’ is amazing!
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lexklein said:
Well, how dumb am I? I spent many an hour taking our Chicago visitors to see that fountain and never once checked out who the artist was! Thank you for edifying me from thousands of miles away!
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Tina Schell said:
Thanks for the tour Lex – know just what you mean about being cold INSIDE. I have the same issue here in SC. Give me too hot over too cold any day!!!
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lexklein said:
Me, too! Everyone keeps warning me to stop saying I love the weather until I’ve been through the summer, but I have to believe I will tolerate that better than a (very long) Chicago winter. Thanks for reading, Tina!
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Bespoke Traveler said:
Look at all that urban green! Makes me so very happy. Enjoy discovering your new backyard.
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lexklein said:
Thanks! Finding new little tidbits each day as I enjoy the delightful spring weather!
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registercouple said:
Great read and photos! Houston has a lot to offer, glad you’re enjoying it. Hit us up for recommendations. Big Thicket National Preserve is a pretty short drive east and it’s awesome for canoe/kayak camping. Sugar white sandbars to camp on, just take plenty of bug spray 🙂
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lexklein said:
Thanks, and even more thanks for telling me about that preserve. I’m always looking for stuff like that. Our only impediment to more exploration is our almost-14 yo dog, who can barely walk. I bought a thing that’s like a front baby carrier and have schlepped her around on a few trails like that, but it’s a little awkward! I’ll check this place out, though – maybe we can make a day trip of it (?). And yes, Houston has so much to offer – we are thrilled to be here so far.
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registercouple said:
If you were able to do an overnight, you can rent a canoe and they’ll drop you off and pick you up. We didn’t really do any hiking there, just paddling and relaxing, which your doggy may actually enjoy. Glad you’re enjoying it here!
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shoreacres said:
I’m so glad you’re settling in and happy. I dallied a bit about leaving a comment just to see how the conversation here went, and I have to confess that I had to swallow a little when I noticed the suggestion that Houston is a good place to be because “outsiders” have come in and diluted the Texas atmosphere. It’s somewhat ironic that many Texans have no time for Houston and Dallas (or Austin or San Antonio for that matter) precisely because they’ve experienced either contempt or derision in those place — from people who weren’t raised here, and have arrived only for the high-end jobs.
But that’s probably true in every city around the country. It’s just that the urban/rural differences in this state seem a little sharper, and there is a certain Texas culture. On the other hand, people tend to be pretty polite, so even those with different interests and values often get along quite well without separating into little enclaves.
You have been blessed with a wonderful spring: no question about that. You’ve reminded me of one very important survival tip for Houston living: once summer arrives, always have a sweater or light jacket at hand for restaurants, movies, theaters, and so on. We’re not only the most air-conditioned city in the world, we’re the most over-air-conditioned!
Also: when the rains come, be very, very careful. Those freeway underpasses downtown can be death traps. They flood at the drop of a thunderstormy hat — which you probably know. But flooding is much worse than it was even ten years ago, so it’s worth a mention.
I thought of you last week as I was cruising along Highway 35 in Brazoria County, and crossed Buffalo Bayou. Yes, the very same. They thread through the land for miles, and they’re absolutely delightful wherever they’re encountered!
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shoreacres said:
ps: you’re right about the care that’s been taken in the post-Allison, post-Ike rebuilding, but what serves Buffalo Bayou well isn’t necessarily reflected in neighborhoods. I’ve been involved in a down-to-the-studs rebuild after Allison, and several friends on Brays Bayou have been flooded out — some, multiple times in just the past years. You’re enjoying the best of what Houston has to offer — count your blessings!
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lexklein said:
I had to go back and see what comment you might be referring to, and I have to admit I found the non-Texan reference to be a little off-putting as well. I tend to keep my responses as upbeat and positive as possible, and I know it was not mean-spirited. The interesting thing is that I find (and mention in a number of my replies) that nearly all of Texas (big cities included) retains a strong and unique identity that no other U.S. state can manage, even as some of its cities have become more diverse in terms of ethnicity, economy, and place of origin. I am a big believer that diversity strengthens, not weakens, and I don’t know of any other place that has absorbed so many job transferees and international arrivals and still maintained such a strong sense of self.
I am also seeing the big difference in levels of politeness and acceptance, especially after the intense divisiveness of DC and my former community in the Chicago area. Here, people of different interests and values DO co-exist in a very nice way, and I am loving that!
I fear the flooding. When my daughter lived here from 2013-15, she experienced a really bad one. Her friend’s car was underwater up to the top of the windows, and I’ve seen scary photos of those underpasses and even Allen Parkway, which we use daily. Yikes! We actually looked at the flood maps as we did our house search, but as you know, we could go a few blocks or miles and be in a low spot in the blink of an eye. I plan to be extra cautious!
Thanks for your thoughtful comments!
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shoreacres said:
I’m so glad you took my comments in the spirit they were intended — no more than reflections and musings from someone who’s lived here (on and off) since 1973, and who’s seen great changes in many areas.
Like you, I prefer to be open and positive, but every now and then, I think the larger world in which we move affects my own attitudes a bit. I try to fend off that tendency, and put charitable constructions on things that might annoy me. 🙂
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darwinontherocks said:
It looks like a wonderful new hometown, full of green 🙂
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lexklein said:
It is most certainly green! It’s a humid and sometimes rainy place, so the grass and the other vegetation can be very lush. I love seeing things like palm trees and tropical plants every day; I feel like I’m on vacation all the time!
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seeingthrough35mm said:
Hope you and your family are safe and sound, heard about the flooding, our thoughts are with you
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lexklein said:
Thank you! We are pretty much OK. It’s traumatizing but we are among the most fortunate here in town. I just want it to end!
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Manja Mexi Movie said:
I reached back to see how many posts on your blog I’ve missed and found this. Then I moved to the end briefly to see what happened after the flood. Good to hear you’re pretty much okay but I’m wondering about this park… I see that it’s been built to flood but still, it was a huge flood.
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lexklein said:
I need to reach back into your blog, too; I’ve missed a lot! Believe it or not, there was just a newspaper article that said that even after weeks of being underwater, that park is going to be fine!
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Manja Mexi Movie said:
This is great news, hurrah!
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