It’s no secret that I’ve been a reluctant transplant to Washington, DC, for the last nine months, and that was well before all the upheaval of the last few weeks. In my brain, I know it’s a beautiful city, but there was something in my heart that wouldn’t let me fully embrace this place.
Washington is filled with limestone facades and mansard roofs I would rave about if they were in Paris. Streets with colorful row houses lined up under flowering trees fill my vibrant urban neighborhood, yet I desultorily snap photos of them and never look at them again. Impressive statues spring from a plethora of green parks, rowers ply the sparkling Potomac in slim shells, and gothic spires pierce the sky from Georgetown to Cathedral Heights. And still I said Meh …
But a month or so ago, a switch was flipped. We started to make a point to get out at least once a week with tourist eyes. I resisted – some places more than others. Great Falls promised and delivered some powerful nature, Rock Creek Park and Roosevelt Island got us deep into the woods in the midst of a major city, and Union Market produced one of the best grilled cheese sandwiches I’d had in a long time!
Languishing on the list, however, was Dumbarton Oaks, a house and garden in Georgetown that my husband had frequented years ago as a student. I pictured a few teak benches and some pedestrian flower beds, a boring colonial house and small parklet of limited interest.
Proving my bias toward international inspiration, I got a comment from a blog reader way over in Sri Lanka (that’s you, Peta!) who gave me the final shove I needed to go see this place. On an abnormally warm, sunny day, we finally ventured through the gates to what turned out to be an enchanted garden of wonder and delight.
Each “room” was a microcosm of magic: Nearly tropical pockets of ponds, flowers and giant leaves.
Autumnal tableaux of pumpkins and pergolas draped with withering vines.
A mossy wall with a tiny Pan and his flute, pointing the way to an oval pool, a long allée, and its vanishing point among a stand of still-green trees.
A pebble garden, geometric latticework, and grassy steps in a worn amphitheater.
Time stopped as we slowly wandered the grounds here and for a little while, I fell in love with my adopted city.
Osyth said:
What a beautiful gallery of shots and what a lovely place to be in!
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lexklein said:
Thanks! It really was an eye-opening afternoon – a day to fully appreciate some of the beauty of my city.
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Sue Slaght said:
Wonderful to hear that this outing is helping you to settle in to your adopted city Lexi. We have not moved much in our lives and I think as much as we travel I would have a hard time settling in permanently to a new home. What a beautiful park. The reflection in the pool is stunning.
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lexklein said:
Thanks, Sue. Yep, I’ve learned that a wholesale move is quite different from even a very long trip! If I put the tourist glasses on, though, things do seem more palatable.
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J.D. Riso said:
Good to hear that you’re warming up to your new city. Sometimes it just takes a bit of effort and time, and sometimes it never happens.
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lexklein said:
Slow and steady …! By the time I like the place, it’ll probably be time to leave!
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colonialist said:
Love the “He went thattaway” Pan!
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lexklein said:
I didn’t think of it like that, but you are so right with that interpretation! I think he was my favorite find of the day – maybe a few inches tall and cut right into that stone wall as we rounded a corner.
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Bespoke Traveler said:
Had no ideas there was such greenery in Washington D.C. Looking forward to exploring this at some point.
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lexklein said:
I was a bit surprised, too, and gratified even more. We live on a busy corner right in the city with little grass in sight. Finding the parks, gardens, and nature in general fairly close by has made this little sojourn so much more bearable.
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Bespoke Traveler said:
I completely understand. When in big cities I too am always in search of such quiet little green pockets where I can breathe away from the mad rush.
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Suvi said:
Oh it’s so pretty! I’d love to explore there 🙂
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lexklein said:
I know you like the great outdoors, so you would enjoy it for sure!
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Mabel Kwong said:
Lovely to see you out and about, roaming the places near your backyard. Stunning waters, rocks and greens. It is amazing what you can discover in your own backyard.
Grilled cheeses. I am taking you mean a grilled cheese sandwich? I love those, and if a place had good food, it makes it feel all the more comfortable and cozy 😊
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lexklein said:
Thanks, Mabel – it was a good way to show myself that I have been underestimating my new city. We often shorten that yummy sandwich to just a “grilled cheese” but I went back and changed it in the post because that does seem confusing for readers! As the weather has gotten chillier, I find myself craving a warm and melty grilled cheese sandwich and some tomato soup more and more often!
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Mabel Kwong said:
Haha! At first I really thought you grilled a piece of cheese on the grill ever so slightly and ate it that way…and I thought, well, couldn’t be. I suppose it is an American way of saying things 😛
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Jeff Bell said:
What a beautiful spot. It can be eye opening to be a tourist in your hometown.
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lexklein said:
Thanks, Jeff. Yes, it helps to see things from a cheerier, more hopeful perspective! 🙂 I generally like everything while traveling; I need to use that same sense of positivity while here!
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Shelley @Travel-Stained said:
Glad to hear you are settling in, and finding places that resonate with you in your new home. Dumbarton Oaks really does look quite magical – and I couldn’t help but think it could sub for a Harry Potter training school if need be. 😉
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lexklein said:
Ha – never thought of it that way, but it could indeed be a backdrop for wizards and other fanciful folks!
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Manja Mexi Movie said:
Excellent. 🙂
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lexklein said:
Thanks! I really just had to post that little Pan photo, and the rest spilled out! 🙂
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Bama said:
I’m glad you finally found that excitement in exploring your adopted city, Lex. When I moved to Jakarta back in 2008 I didn’t like it — in fact I hated it. But gradually it grew on me, and now every time I travel for an extended period of time at one point I usually miss Jakarta. Maybe DC is like that to you.
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lexklein said:
Little by little, it is growing on me. As you noticed in Jakarta also, as time goes on and I travel away from here for a time, it does start to feel (a little) like home when I get back!
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Inger said:
Such gorgeous reflections in that little pond. Beautiful scenery:)
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lexklein said:
Thanks! It was such a clear day that there were beautiful reflections everywhere.
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dave ply said:
I nice bit of nature can be a saving grace for a city. I don’t think I could stand a concrete jungle without any substantial parks.
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lexklein said:
They do make a big difference – both the smaller ones spread around town and the bigger ones in and outside the city. I was blown away by Great Falls – there were tons of kayakers and some actual whitewater less than 30 minutes away!
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tanyaG said:
Those are some amazing photos. They are so enchanting it makes me want to go visit.
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lexklein said:
Thanks! If you want a road trip, drive on up and check out this beautiful spot! If not, I found your Botanical Gardens to be just as lovely when I was in Atlanta last winter/early spring! I think any garden in the midst of urban space provides a nice respite.
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Green Global Trek said:
Ahhh what a lovely surprise to read that you not only made it to Dumbarton Oaks but devoted a post to it! Yay….
If you keep going back, as you surely will, you will notice all the subtle and grand seasonal changes and start to think of Dumbarton as your very own backyard /property. It’s also easy to get away from most of the visitors who tend to stick to the central paths.
Thanks for the great memories. Your photos do it great justice! Love the pond photo and pebble garden.
Thanks for the thoughtful mention 🙂 You made my day and my hubby is beaming. He lived in DC for quite a few years and loved it. To be fair, He introduced me to Dumbarton so credit and kudos go to him.
Peta
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lexklein said:
We really are psyched to go back ourselves and we want to take all of our visitors, too! We got so lucky (in a way) on our timing. The day had been gray and a little chilly all morning but by the time we got there when it opened at 2, the sun was shining. Still, no one else seemed to have ventured out (plus it was the last day you had to pay to get in), so it was really empty and we wandered almost alone through most areas. Thanks for your nice comment on the photos; as you know, though, photos can hardly capture the scope of the beauty. Glad to give you and Ben a little vicarious garden walk in one of your favorite spots!
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tperders said:
I can identify so much with that feeling of resistance to a new place! I know for me it was a rejection of the idea of my new city as home (because we’re going back eventually in theory, and part of me insists on holding onto that). Whenever I let go of that and make the effort to discover something new in Bangkok I never, ever regret it. So pleased you found a new beautiful spot in the place you live.
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lexklein said:
That’s been *exactly* my problem. I have thought all along that this was a brief interlude and that we’d go back to Chicago. Not that there’s any more clarity now, but I figured it was time to ease up on the resistance and appreciate the things I actually did like!
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awtytravels said:
Hi there Lexi!
I do relate to your feeling, since I’m sort of ‘accepting’ London, rather living in it. What’s the least you like of Washington and, if you had to find a reason, which one would it be?
If I may do something like your Sri Lankan reader, may I “push” you for a visit to the Air & Space pavilion of the Smithsonian, or the Udvar-Hazy centre by the airport, please? Geeks worldwide would appreciate massively!
thanks
Fabrizio 🙂
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lexklein said:
I wish I could pick one thing … (haha). I guess for me – an extremely politics-averse person – being in our capital at any time with all the blatherers has not been appealing. This election season has been doubly annoying. I also miss skyscrapers on one hand and more relaxed suburbs on the other.
I love the Air and Space museum, but I’ve never heard of the Udvar-Hazy center – I’ll check it out and report back!
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awtytravels said:
Please do! It’s a dependance of the Smithsonian, located by Dulles airport. Udvar Hazy was a Hungarian chap who escaped Hungary and, as you do, started the world’s largest aircraft leasing company, ILFC. Chances are you’ve flown a lot on “their” airplanes, and Udvar-Hazy created this pavilion as a mean to give back something to the community. The geek community that is, but a community nonetheless! 🙂
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lexklein said:
If a fascination with airplanes makes one a geek, then I am one, too! My brother lives close to Dulles so I will make it a point to stop by there very soon; it sounds like a good winter activity!
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awtytravels said:
Bring your camera please!
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twobrownfeet said:
We’re treading similar paths — on two different paths — of the world, Lex. Being a tourist in your adopted city is a great way to learn to appreciate it. It’s been a slow and equally trying journey for me. I’m so glad you’ve discovered beautiful spots and places you could retreat to get that foot out of the door. 🙂
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lexklein said:
Of course, I always think you’re doing a better job! (The grass is always greener …) But yes, opening my mind and having a more inquisitive attitude has been a big boost!
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Kate Klein said:
This makes me happy! I hope you are still feeling positive even if not every day. Love you!
On Mon, Nov 21, 2016 at 5:34 PM, One Foot Out the Door wrote:
> lexklein posted: “It’s no secret that I’ve been a reluctant transplant to > Washington, DC, for the last nine months, and that was well before all the > upheaval of the last few weeks. In my brain, I know it’s a beautiful city, > but there was something in my heart that wouldn’t” >
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lexklein said:
Much more positivity reigning here these days although one extra nice part of DC is still missing! xo
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Curt Mekemson said:
Lovely, Lex. Long ago I came to the conclusion that beauty is to be found everywhere, and rarely have I been disappointed. Great photos. –Curt
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lexklein said:
I absolutely agree! I just get lazy in my own current city. 😦
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lisadorenfest said:
Well now you’ve got me motivated to find my Dumbarton Oaks in my new adopted cities! You’ve shown me that MAGNIFICENT shows up in the most unexpected places. Thanks for the inspiration.
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lexklein said:
There is an optimistic, hopeful streak in me that eventually pushes me out the door to find the good anywhere. I have definitely wallowed in my misery way too much here, but I finally found that pretending to enjoy a place can actually lead to enjoying a place! I’ve been reading that focusing on being grateful, or happy, or whatever positive emotions can actually change your brain chemistry to make you start to really BE those things. When I’m not too stubborn to try, I’ve found it can work. Dumbarton Oaks made me so happy on a day when I let myself be happy.
Hang in there in your temporary home (those are the hardest, I think) and your own positive spirit will prevail! 🙂
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lisadorenfest said:
Great wisdom as always Lexie 🌞
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estelea said:
Very happy to read that you are finally making friend with DC. Especially because you are offering us such a nice walk, and honestly my mouth was watering looking at your pictures.. fall, blue sky, beautiful colours..
More! more! think about your stranded friends who are dreaming of grilled cheese sandwich and green 😉
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lexklein said:
I wish I could give you more, but those blue skies and colorful leaves have now disappeared! Here we are dreaming of your beaches …. but not your food, based on your last post! 🙂
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restlessjo said:
Just goes to show! And Peta always had good taste 🙂
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lexklein said:
My husband half laughed, half chafed at the idea that a blogger halfway across the world was the one who got me to go to this place he’d been talking up for … I kid you not, at least 25 years! Granted, we’ve only lived here 10 months, but even on past visits, I pooh-poohed going to that garden. But when Peta said to go, well, then I went! Haha.
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restlessjo said:
Think bloggers will ever rule the world? Maybe it’d be a nicer place 🙂
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lexklein said:
The blogging world is absolutely the friendliest, most polite, most supportive “place” I’ve been part of in recent years – at least in the circle I’ve found!
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leggypeggy said:
What a fantastic spot. Love the tiny pan.
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lexklein said:
Isn’t he adorable?! He was my favorite thing in the whole place. He was pointing at that reflective pond and long allee. I just loved his detailed petiteness.
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leggypeggy said:
Good thing I wasn’t there or I might have been tempted to pocket him! 🙂
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gallivance.net said:
Lexie, I’m no longer a fan of living in big cities, but we lived in DC years ago and loved it. For me the primary attraction was the museums. I loved being able to go to the Smithsonian and spend a couple of hours, knowing that I could absorb the exhibit slowly and return later. We rented a furnished apartment there for a month a couple of years ago, and it was wonderful to be back. But who knows, given our new president, the capital may be moved to New Jersey … and have a casino attached. 🙂 ~James
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lexklein said:
Ahh, yes, just when I am finally becoming interested and comfortable in my new city, it appears all hell may break loose! Watching cautiously …
There are so many wonderful museums, I agree. Over the years, and in this past year in particular, we have visited many of them and still have plenty to see!
P.S. I found the ajvar-like spread at TJs and it was great – thanks for the tip!
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lexorknightrider said:
Do enjoy my hometown. I have been away for many years now and things have changed but there’s a lot that hasn’t. So much to see and do. You took me down memory lane with your photos.
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lexklein said:
I’m doing a better job these days! There really is a lot going on here, so I’ll try to cram more sightseeing in while I’m still here … looks like another move may be on the horizon!
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lexorknightrider said:
Oh no. Well do as much as you can.
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Pingback: Out with the Old, In with the New! | One Foot Out the Door
rommel said:
Had I not read the words, I wouldn’t have predicted this to be in Washington. Excellent artsy images you showed us with dashes of charms and nature beauty.
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lexklein said:
Thanks! It’s been surprising for me, too, to find these spots of natural beauty amid big-city life. It’s been great to venture out as much as we can to find the hidden treasures!
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AndysWorldJourneys said:
Well, it looks very grand! Could probably do without that big orange thing that moved in recently.
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lexklein said:
That is quite true!
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