Tags
culture, customs, hospitality, meat, Mongolia, nomads, traditions, vegetarianism
I’ve been a vegetarian since 2009 and have rarely felt any need to eat meat since then. My reasons for choosing a meatless diet were many and varied, ranging from a waning interest in the taste of meat in general to the environmental and health concerns of raising and eating animals from huge, industrial farms. (Truth be told, my aversion started even earlier – after I read Alive, the book about airplane crash victims in the Andes who ate human flesh to survive. But I digress, unappealingly.)
I have not been a zealot about my stance, however, and many people outside of my family and closest friends are not aware I’m a vegetarian, even when I share meals with them. I’m reluctant to ask dinner hosts for special foods and have always quietly found plenty of things to fill my plate in almost every setting. When I’ve traveled, I’ve sustained myself perfectly well, even on arduous treks in locales where meat is prized, like Nepal, where I hiked for weeks in the high Himalayas, fueled mainly by carbs and eggs (and the occasional protein bar!).
So why am I even considering eating meat in Mongolia next month? For one, the traditional Mongolian nomadic diet is highly meat- and dairy-centric, with vegetables and fruits very hard to come by in the grasslands that cover much of the country I’ll be crossing. They are not easy to grow in the strong winds and harsh climates (both summer and winter) out on the steppe, and the nomadic population is on the move from season to season and could not tend them anyway.
Animals, on the other hand, move along with nomadic families and provide a consistent source of meat and dairy products to their owners. I’ve read that I can’t even count on eggs here, as I have in other meat-oriented cultures; Mongolian herders do not keep chickens because they are considered dirty (not to mention difficult to herd!). Beyond logistics, Mongolians also believe that meat is critical for the spirit as well as the body; in fact, they are often disdainful of vegetables, considering them food fit only for animals.
This disapprobation would not be enough to persuade me, but one other factor might: the strong sense of hospitality that Mongolians dearly value. In the nomadic grasslands, travelers are always welcome in any ger, the round tents that herdsmen and their families live in. The custom is to walk into any tent, even a stranger’s, and there are many greeting rituals that include vodka, snuff boxes, tea, and food. Much of my upcoming trip will be spent in the grasslands, staying in ger camps and meeting the local people. I’ve been told to bring along some small gifts, and I know from previous travels that refusing what is offered to me may be considered rude or offensive.
Will I need to eat a few bites of meat to be polite? Will I find enough to eat during my days on the steppe without resorting to meat? I don’t think I have a philosophical problem with it; many of my objections to meat are moot in Mongolia, where animals are treasured and raised responsibly. The bigger question is whether it will be at all appealing, or even bearable, to eat some of the animal products I may be served?
Have you ever had to, wanted to, or refused to put aside your preferences or beliefs when traveling?
Traveling Rockhopper said:
I’m a vegetarian, and have to admit, I suffered a bit in Mongolia…
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lexklein said:
Oh, I didn’t even hope to find another vegetarian who’d been to Mongolia who was reading … so what did you eat? I’ll have to go check out any Mongolia posts you’ve written!
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Traveling Rockhopper said:
oh, I didn’t describe my Mongolian experience yet.
But food, well, I remember reading on Wikipedia that people don’t go to Mongolia because of food, and couldn’t agree more 😀
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Jolandi Steven said:
Hats off to you for deciding to still travel to Mongolia. I’ve never liked the taste of meat, and becoming a vegetarian was very liberating. I’ve never struggle whilst travelling to find something to eat. Like you, I try not to make too much of a fuss, but the thought of eating meat makes me feel physically ill, so although I think Mongolia must be an amazing place to travel in, I will do so through your eyes. Safe travels, and may this be a wonderful experience.
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lexklein said:
It will certainly be a fascinating cultural experience. I also find it liberating to be vegetarian, in part because I can eliminate entire sections of menus! In Mongolia, I am really not worried about finding enough food; I’m mainly thinking about how not to offend, which seems the harder task. But I’m sure most people will understand. I will soon let you know!
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Jolandi Steven said:
Not offending is most certainly the hardest part. Good luck. And yes, I also love the fact that it makes menus smaller, as I always find it difficult to make up my mind. Happy travels.
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LaVagabonde said:
This is the very reason why I have resigned myself to the fact that I will probably never visit Mongolia. I haven’t eaten red meat for 26 years, poultry for 19. (I eat fish, dairy, eggs.) I think that even if I could force down meat at this point, my body would have a hard time and I might even get sick. I’m aware of the Mongolian culture and hospitality, and I wouldn’t want to offend them. Good luck! Are you bringing any energy bars or other emergency food in case you don’t get enough to eat? I did that for North Korea, but totally ended up not needing it.
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lexklein said:
Yikes – you are such an intrepid traveler and if Mongolia gives you pause … well, I hope it goes OK for me! Yes, I will bring some protein or energy bars, but I figure I can eat the cheese (although I’m kind of picky about that, too 😦 ) and breads and … ? I’ll just have to fake the meat-eating or practice my stealth spitting-out skills!
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LaVagabonde said:
I just know how important the acceptance of food is to their culture. Someone in my North Korea group told me (during the meal where dog soup was being consumed) a story about a guy they knew who went on a camping trip in Mongolia. He knew he had to eat whatever they offered, and he was offered fresh, steaming intestines. He ate it, but it was all he could do to not lose it. Apparently he was a tough guy, used to lots of hardcore trips. I doubt your tour will be that hardcore, probably just yak meat. Tours that cater to Westerners must know that some of us have “weird” habits. I’ll wait for your report to determine if it is indeed possible for me to go there and not starve. 😉
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lexklein said:
You’re freaking me out here, Julie! If I even had to look at steaming intestines, I would vomit. The company that has arranged my trip into the countryside is a small organization led by a Mongolian woman and her American husband … hopefully that will help!
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Bama said:
Luckily so far I haven’t encountered any situation where I have to refuse the food given to me. But in the case of someone offering me dog or cat meat, that’s my limit… I really can’t go that far. I’m also lucky that no one has ever served me shark fin soup, turtle egg, or any other dishes made from endangered animals.
Have a great time in Mongolia! And yes, do bring some energy bars.
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lexklein said:
I’m right there with you on the cats and dogs and endangered species … and probably a whole lot more! Have you been to Mongolia, Bama? A few comments here have suggested I bring some form of supplemental sustenance, so I’m wondering if I really will have trouble finding good stuff to eat! Really, I’m not too worried about going hungry, just about not being polite.
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Bama said:
Actually I haven’t. Bringing supplemental substance is what Indonesians usually do, just in case we miss our chilies or savory food. 🙂 I never do that though, but on my two trips to Europe the people who went with me brought some Indonesian food with them. So I guess bringing energy or protein bars to Mongolia is more about preparing yourself for a little ‘comfort’.
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lexklein said:
Then I will bring some popcorn! 🙂
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Sue Slaght said:
Yes I have. I don’t eat red meat and very littlw poultry or fish. Sometimes it just has been too complicated or I felt would disrespect my hosts. Now I am not bound by religious beliefs or allergies so the term I have heard used is flexitarian.
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lexklein said:
I feel like this is a time I might be a flexitarian (good word!). I guess we will see …
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thirdeyemom said:
I only eat birds and fish and a little pork. No red meat for 25 years and I could never eat it again. I think you loose the taste for it and also I worry what my stomach would do. That said when I travel to meat areas I just avoid it. Sadly I can be a bit picky. I love ethnic food but don’t eat anything daring. Oh well.
Who are you going to Mongolia with and what are you doing while there? Can hardly wait to hear more! Sounds fantastic!
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lexklein said:
The toughest part this time will be avoiding meat in a polite way, if that is even possible. If you scroll up and read LaVagabonde’s second comment, you will see what scary prospects await me! Yikes!
I am going alone (spending time in Seoul also), but I’m meeting a very small group (4 other people) in Mongolia to go west into the steppe and south to the Gobi desert. We will spend a few days in or near Ulaanbaatar also, including 2 full days at the Naadam festival, where we can view the horse racing, wrestling, and archery competitions they are famous for. It should be a fascinating trip!
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thirdeyemom said:
Wow Lexi!!!! Sounds absolutely amazing! I can hardly wait to hear all about it! You are amazing!
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thirdeyemom said:
And yes the meat thing would be hard but you can pretend maybe? Spit it out when no one is looking??? 😌
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Alison and Don said:
OMG I would love to do this trip!!!!!!! (Doubt I’ll ever get Don to something so basic though. He likes a certain amount of comfort). Of course I have no answer for your dilemma. I’m pretty much like Nicole – fish and chicken. No pork, and red meat only occasionally. I found it works okay for me when I do have it. I don’t have any adverse reaction. Try having just a little with each meal. That might work. What I do know is that you’ll work it out – you’re OneFootOutTheDoor!
Alison
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lexklein said:
That would be my husband, Jeff, also. He does not like tents, and even though he is hardly in need of luxury, he likes a few comforts. When we found out his new job offered less vacation time, he told me to take off to somewhere on my own this summer, preferably to a place he had no interest in visiting. I don’t think I’d get sick from eating the food – more the IDEA of eating some of the animals parts! Thanks for the vote of confidence – I think I’ll be fine, too!
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Amy Sampson said:
I honestly don’t think I could stomach it. It’s been over 20 years for me. I can’t even imagine putting meat in my mouth. I wish you luck!
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lexklein said:
I think the idea of putting some of the foods in my stomach will be worse than actually putting them in my stomach …. well, at least that’s what I believe now. I promise to not give any of the gory details in future posts!
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Amy Sampson said:
I’m glad it’s you and not me. LOL
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wanderingcows said:
I’ve travelled to Mongolia and meat is definitely the order of the day, everyday. I’m not vegetarian, but I did miss having a balanced diet everyday and some of the food was quite stodgy. Growing anything is difficult in most of the Mongolian terrain. It made me feel lucky about what I get to eat at home.
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lexklein said:
Perhaps Mongolia can be my summer weight-loss program?! Haha. But seriously, I was a little worried thinking about this topic before, but after reading the comments here from people who have been there, I am even more convinced I’d better carry some good snacks!
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wanderingcows said:
Yes, snacks are definitely a good idea !!
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Tina Schell said:
An interesting quandary Lex, will be interested in seeing how it turns out! As for me, I can ALWAYS find something that appeals, altho sometimes it’s harder than others!
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lexklein said:
Oh, I’m quite sure I won’t starve! I can almost always find some little thing that appeals to me, no matter where I am. I will just have to let you know later what that little something IS, though! 🙂
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wrightsolution said:
This post brings back so many memories! I’ve been a vegetarian for 25+ years. Back in the early days at Greek Easters, they used to bring the kokoresti around and I learnt to chew an imaginary mouthful and lick my fingers saying “kala, kala, poli oraio” and that would satisify the host that I had already had some! It worked much better than trying to explain I didn’t eat meat. Sometimes the little fib that the doctor said that I needed to stay away from meat worked too. But I don’t imagine that would work in Mongolia. It sounds tough. Yak butter in tea is another acquired taste too.. you might need a secret stash of protein bars! Have a fantastic time and look forward to your tales. Caroline
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lexklein said:
I guess I’ll have to look up the words for “kala, kala, poli oraio” in Mongolian! I have enough trouble with the lamb spinning on the spit for Greek Easter; I think I’d die if I were offered kokoresti! I’ve already thought about how to fake eat or how to discreetly spit out what I eat … not sure that seems a whole lot more polite, however. I’ve sipped yak butter tea in Tibet and have fake-ate some meat there, so I’ll just put all my Emily Post and meat-avoidance skills together in Mongolia! Hope life is good in Jamaica!
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wrightsolution said:
(Maybe religious reasons…that might work there ;o)! Jamaican life a little stagnant…I keep thinking about breaking the blogging silence….but where to start!
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gallivance.net said:
Once again, you pose an interesting question Lexie. Back in my corporate days I was lucky enough to be part of a small team negotiating a contract in China. On and off, I spent about 3 months there, and it was a wonderful experience. The negotiations stretched on and on, so to keep us occupied (or confused) the Chinese side would hold regular dinner banquets which always included “delicacies.” Needless to say, I ate some really, really weird stuff. And anytime I told this tale to someone back home they’d say: “How on earth can you eat something like fish stomach?” To which I would answer: if you invited someone into your home and prepared a very special meal, and then they turned up there nose and didn’t touch the food, how would you feel? Bottom line, in my opinion, your instincts are correct. A short-term change in diet is much less important than offending generous hosts – no matter where they are. ~James
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lexklein said:
I have to think your situation was more difficult – after all, I don’t have a deal riding on my meat-eating decisions! Your experience reminds me, in turn, of some choices my husband had to make while doing business in Asia. As part of normal business dealings, he was offered huge amounts of liquor (bearable, just had to sip), questionable meats and weird ocean creatures (OK, just took small bites), endless smoking and cigarette offerings (just said no), and … some female companionship (official story is he said no … haha, pretty sure that is true, but how awkward)!! But yes, I do agree overall that if I can make my hosts feel good without getting sick or really compromising some values, that is the way to go.
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Peta Kaplan said:
This is a great post about a topic that comes up a lot for anyone that is vegetarian or vegan especially while traveling. I tend to do what many here suggest, which is to do your best not to offend your host, by eating some of what they offer. That said, I think its easier said then done for a vegetarian and non meat eating individual.
One trick I learned a long time ago while in similar situations is that you can sneak some of your food into a napkin in your lap so that it appears you ate it all whereas you only ate some of it… only does this when desperate though, of course.
The other aspect is how to not go hungry while traveling in meat heavy countries. I always pack a big bag of dates and a lot of nuts. The dates are filling and give you energy and are a great meal substitute when needed. Another thing I love to travel with is really really good dark chocolate. That way if you find yourself in a footless or a meat heavy environment and you ARE hungry, chocolate goes a long way to fill that void.
Great post! Cant wait to read your posts about Mongolia.
Peta
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lexklein said:
I think I will be stealthily placing hunks of meat in my napkin for sure! The question is whether I will have to chew any of it first – haha! I always bring nuts along, but the dates and chocolate are excellent ideas. I love them both and you are right that they will fill me up. Added to the list! Thank you!
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lisadorenfest said:
I don’t have a story but my partner does. Him and his ex lived in Africa for a few years in Tanzania. They were invited by the Masai to eat a goat that had been slaughtered in front of them and seared for like two minutes. He told the chief that it was against his religion to eat goat. The chief was okay with that. His ex was too nice to refuse and not quick enough to come up with a good excuse (as I would have been) and ended up quite ill. My only word of advice for you is not to eat beef. I have friends that went off long term vegetarian diets and it was always the burgers that made them ill.
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lexklein said:
Would you believe we have a similar story?! We also were part of one of these Maasai goat slaughters and severe undercookings, but we were able to avoid eating any. The slaughter itself made me feel ill, but I watched it because I couldn’t bear to miss out on a “cultural experience.” Maybe after that, the mere offering of some already-dead yak meat will seem tame – haha. I am going to avoid all the meat as much as I can and if I do need to show respect by taking some, it will be no more than a nibble!
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lisadorenfest said:
😄
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kidsandcompass said:
Good luck with your trip to Mongolia, and the eating, whatever you decide! I’ve been veggie for 15 years now and I honestly don’t think I could face eating meat. I think I’d have to say that it was against my religion or something similar, but I wouldn’t want to offend. Tough choice!
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lexklein said:
Thanks! It’s coming up so soon now, and I still can’t imagine what awaits me in the meat-eating department! I will definitely demur if possible, but if I must partake to be polite, it will be minuscule amounts and maybe even stealthily spit out! Who knows – maybe I’ll return a yak-eating carnivore (doubtful)!
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twobrownfeet said:
I cannot imagine how difficult it will be for you to eat meat again. I hope the Mongolian scenery and the warmth of the people more than make up for your challenge. I’ve found, not thinking, while eating, to be a good solution. 🙂
I’ve not read or seen “Alive”. I wasn’t sure I could get through with either. I think, it’s hard to say what we could or would do when we’re in a situation. I’ve thought of it many times. Never been able to reach an answer.
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lexklein said:
The meat-eating dilemma never really materialized to any great extent, luckily. I was offered meat many times, took a small amount and nibbled around it. but I also was served many non-meat items because many hosts knew I was a vegetarian. I ate very well in Mongolia, surprisingly!
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Halee Pagel said:
I used to live in Mongolia and although I do eat meat, many of my vegetarian, non-Mongolian friends had some strategies for politely refusing meat. They’d explain upfront that they don’t eat meat, eat around it, or explain their stomachs hurt and they couldn’t eat meat right then.
By now you’ve been in Mongolia for a few weeks and I’m sure you have figured out how to feed yourself, meatlessly. But, if there is ever a time to try meat, do it now! Mongolian meat is the freshest and most delicious meat I have ever had. The animals are truly “free-range” and they eat fresh grass wherever they roam. Hope you’re enjoying yourself! Mongolia is a beautiful country!
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lexklein said:
I never even thought about how fresh and wonderful the meat is there, although I did think about the fact that many of the things that turn me off meat here do not exist there, like overcrowding. I am now back home but had the most amazing time in Mongolia. I did eat very well – loved the fresh cheeses and milk and yogurt in particular. I had some foods that had meat in or near them, and even though I never took any big bites of the actual meat, I did taste the juices and the flavors many times, and they were very nice! Did you live in UB or out in the countryside? What a neat experience that must have been!
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Halee Pagel said:
I was an English teacher out east in Khentii province. I’ve got some pictures up from my time there: http://tinyurl.com/gwxabjj
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lexklein said:
Just looking around your blog now and finding out why you were there and where! very cool. I will check out photos also.
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Liesbet said:
You surely have the perfect approach to visiting different cultures. Having to change some your values or habits is normal, but I have to say that going from not eating meat to eating meat is an honorable and humble choice! Yes, I have eaten many things and accepted gifts I didn’t necessarily cared for, but that is part of traveling and accepting and respecting different cultures. You adjust and you learn and you become a wiser, more open-minded, and caring person in the process. 🙂
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lexklein said:
Thanks for that very nice compliment! I do see a distinction between discipline and rigidity, or conviction and cultural sensitivity, so a stance I take at home during the majority of my life may occasionally fall victim to an attempt to be respectful or flexible on the road. I very much don’t think of it as “cheating” or compromising my beliefs but simply bending like a strong willow that can easily snap back!
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