Day hikes are the appetizers and desserts of trekking aficionados. When I can’t get away for a week or more, the next best thing is a jaunt that still requires a backpack and provisions, a destination, and some great scenery. And the Cinque Terre, literally ‘Five Lands,’ is the perfect place to spend a day on foot and rack up some numbers, traversing the five small towns that form a colorful string along the rugged Ligurian coast of western Italy. We did just that to top off our Tour du Mont Blanc circuit hike one summer.
Uno: We based ourselves and started our walk in the busiest and northernmost of the Cinque Terre towns – Monterosso al Mare. Here there are many accommodations, restaurants, and even a beach, all set in irregular stone streets that surround the seashore and harbor. The town is famous for pesto, anchovies, and lemons, and we loaded up on pizza, pasta, and limoncello as a well-earned reward for our long Alpine hike and, in my case, the rigors of driving a little stick-shift car on the outrageously steep and twisted roads into the region.
Due: After a hearty breakfast the next day, we set off for town number two: Vernazza. This fishing village is the most picturesque of the group, and we were very lucky to get a beautiful approach shot before a morning rain shower swept us into the harbor and onto the main plaza. Fishing boats bobbed in the curved waterfront (and rested in the village streets), an old castle loomed in the background, pastel-colored buildings haphazardly climbed the hills, and villagers and tourists alike crammed under the few awnings and overhangs in the piazza for protection from the short-lived squall. With the passing of the mini-tempest, the old men went back to untangling their fishing lines, the adolescent boys to ogling the scantily-clad young female visitors, and we to our hike.
Tre: We climbed out of Vernazza on a series of winding stairs and terraces, feeling almost voyeuristic as we passed private patios and stereotypical lines of laundry dangling off skinny houses.
We were now on our way to Corniglia, the only one of the five towns not directly on the water. Perched high on a rocky hill and surrounded by vineyards, Corniglia was the quietest of the villages, and we decided to stop here for a relaxing lunch amid flowering bushes and old stone walls.
These two first sections were the toughest – close to 4 miles overall of steep hills up and down – and we hit the highest point of the day on the way into Corniglia.
Quattro: The smallest enclave, Manarola, was the fourth stop, following a relatively flat and easy route of just over a mile after lunch. Like its big sister, Vernazza, it is a jumble of vibrant facades that spill down the hill into the harbor. It is bright and busy, filled with shops and boats and locals, but has a smaller, more relaxed ambiance – the ideal time and place for an ice cream stop and whiling away some time just people-watching.
Cinque: By late afternoon, we had arrived in Riomaggiore on a cliff-side trail, dubbed Lovers Lane, that overlooked the brilliantly-blue sea.
Farthest to the south and east, Riomaggiore is the largest town of the five and feels more accessible to the outside world than the other villages. Here, those same painted buildings form a V around one final scenic harbor, and the railroad provides an easy return to Monterosso, just in time for more limoncello and pizza.
More Numbers: The Sentiero Azzurro, the Cinque Terre’s most popular walking trail, covers about 7 miles overall and can be walked in either direction. Most people walk south to north, starting flat and easy, but we did it backwards. In recent years, the path has been closed in some sections; heavy rains have washed out parts of the route and rock slides have blocked the path in and out of Corniglia. In addition, the Italian government is limiting the number of hikers to 1.5 million this season (a high of 2.5 million trekked the trail last year) to protect the area, so I’m glad we got there when we did!
daveply said:
I’ve been sticking to the appetizers and desserts of trekking, but have still enjoyed sumptuous outings. I’ve heard good things about Cinque Terre, but wonder if I’ll ever make it now that it’s restricted.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
I’m moving that direction more and more these days, too, Dave! And the feast is just as awesome – I agree. It’s really a shame what has happened there, but totally understandable if you see how these trails cling to the cliffsides and can be overwhelmed with run-off and the trampling of millions of feet.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Alison and Don said:
You got some beautiful shots of these gorgeous villages. I loved Cinque Terre. It remains one of the highlights of our travels.
Alison
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thanks, Alison – for me, too, Cinque Terre was one of the most quaint and beautiful places I’ve been. It combines all my favorite elements – a chance to do a decent walk with a destination, great FOOD, incredible ocean views, charming buildings, warmth, and lovely people.
LikeLiked by 1 person
LaVagabonde said:
Very clever with the numbers.This place looks just too picturesque to be real. I love the idea of hiking from one village to the other, with all that delicious food as a reward.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Haha – thanks – I could not for the life of me come up with a photo or story about numbers, but the place Laguna de los Tres kept popping into my head and I’d just recently written about that. The leap from tres to cinque happened quickly after that, and I was off to cull through some of my favorite photos from a place I’d never written about. The combination of a decently long scenic hike and great food has got to be one of (at least my) life’s greatest pleasures!
LikeLike
anna said:
Oh it’s so beautiful!! On the list!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
That combo of the colorful buildings against the sparkling sea, all viewed from a cliffside trail, really is incredible! Keep it on your list for sure!
LikeLiked by 1 person
abitofculture said:
A part of Italy I’d love to get too. Didn’t realise you can walk between the 5 so cheers!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
I hope by the time you go you can walk the whole length. The trail closures and hiker restrictions are worrisome, but like other fragile sites, the Cinque Terre has seen its share of overuse, unfortunately. Still worth a trip, though – a train runs from one town to another and the landscape is worth it!
LikeLike
SnowSomewhere said:
Lovely Italy, lovely photos ❤
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thank you! It really is a beautiful, relaxing country!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Sue Slaght said:
Oh how wonderful to take this hike again! We were in Cinque Terre in 2010. Many of your photos take me back to the exact spots I recall. When i read earlier this year about the limit on visitors it did not surprise me. We found during the day when the cruise ship tours were about it was extraordinarily crowded. Hopefully the limit will make it a better experience for all.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thanks, Sue! The visitor limits did not surprise me either although I don’t actually remember crowds from any cruise ships, strangely. We were there in 2008, and we started early in the morning, but maybe I willfully ignored the crowds or have purged them from my memory! I do know there was a middle-aged couple that was VERY talkative who kept following us to chat along the trail, and we kept scampering out of each town just to stay ahead of them – haha! I do agree that the limit is a good idea for conserving the area.
LikeLiked by 1 person
badfish said:
Whoa, those are some truly fine-looking towns there! I have never been there, and when I was in Pisa, I had not heard of them, so didn’t stop over to see them. And now I’m a little upset about that!! Your photos simply make me want to go there…now. And who knows…maybe I will.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Are you still dithering? That sounds judgmental, but I think it’s great that you are just chilling until something strikes your fancy. These little towns were incredibly picturesque, but like many recently-discovered spots, they have become a bit overrun with visitors. I think we got there in a sweet spot of time – after they were known but before they exploded with tourists.
LikeLike
badfish said:
Dithering…yup, that’s the word for it. But I am sort of chilling. I’m not sure catching up with commenting and responding is actually “chilling.” I guess mid-summer is not the time to hit those spots! So…still dithering.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Peta Kaplan said:
I’ve always wanted to go here but somehow have not made it there. Yet! We were in Rome recently but time prevented further adventures unfortunately. Your photos are terrific and are reminding me why I wanted to go there in the first place. Italian food after a hike eith great coastsl views…. Now thats an awesome combo!
Peta
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
It’s kind of one of those places that isn’t right near anything else. Having hiked in the Mont Blanc area that summer, we just drove down through the Aosta region to get there. It was an easy drive, and we wanted a place that was calmer than many other tourist destinations in Italy. Kind of ironic that it ended up getting VERY busy in the years after we went. And I agree 100% that hiking, a coastal scene, and great food are just about the best combination ever!
LikeLike
Shelley @Travel-Stained said:
Ohhh we are trying to figure out how to work this into our summer plans! Do u think it’s walkable with an 8 month old in a carrier?
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
For sure the flat parts are doable, and I think the steepest parts are still closed. Your husband seems like the athletic type (I’m remembering a marathon!), so I’m sure you guys would be fine. Parts are steep, but often there are stairs and there’s nowhere you’d feel unstable or unsafe with a baby backpack on. Hope you can go!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Shelley @Travel-Stained said:
With the new probably very needed limits now in place, I def wanna get there now! And yes lol hubby’ll be doing all the carrying. 😅
LikeLiked by 1 person
Tina Schell said:
One of my favorite places ever – so glad we saw it when it was open to all. Understand completely why they have to restrict it tho – the crowds were huge even tho we went to the furthest spot. You’ve captured it beautifully.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thanks, Tina – that’s how we feel now, too – lucky! Lucky to avoid the terrible crowds they are seeing nowadays and lucky to get to walk the whole thing. It was the perfect day hike!
LikeLike
CompassAndCamera said:
We never made it past the first two villages (we were also going north to south) so it’s great (and sad) to see what we missed. That whole coast is so beautiful. My other regret is not having more limoncello. 🙂 Happy to read that you did Cinque Terre properly!! 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thanks! We did the limoncello properly, that’s for sure! We even came home with bottles in our suitcase!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Debbie said:
Hey! Badfish pointed the way over here as im heading for Cinque Terra in a few weeks! I think I’ll kinda stick to the coastline and avoid too much walking up stairs though ! staying in Vernazzo, i just feel in love with the sight of that little lagooon in the middle of the town! (Badfish, if you decide to go to Cinque Terra, let me know!!!)
LikeLiked by 2 people
lexklein said:
Well, I’ll have to thank my dear blogging friend Badfish for sending you over here! I don’t think you can stick to the coastline and not use any stairs here; the “beaches” (not including Monterosso) are just jagged shorelines and cliffs. The walk through the southernmost villages will allow you flat walking closer to the water, but a great majority of the paths connecting the villages are up high and have some stairs in the middle parts. “Lucky” for you, those are the parts that are closed, I believe. Vernazza will be a beautiful place to stay. Have a great time!!!
LikeLike
gallivance.net said:
Lexie, Cinque Terre is the quintessential Mediterranean setting and your lovely photos capture it well. We visited there on one of our early Europe trips in our “Rick Steves Through the Back Door” days. It wasn’t so widely known then, and we were smitten. This string of villages and the hike is one of a kind, and after our visit we were quite chuffed that we had found the real Europe. ~James
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thanks, James. I think we hit it between its period of being relatively unknown and the explosion in tourists. We adored it also; it was so relaxing and we had two of our kids with us, which was wonderful. I remember it as a nice cool-down from our big hike in the Alps (and we ate anything and everything in sight since we’d burned so many calories hiking – ha!).
LikeLike
AndysWorldJourneys said:
gorgeous photos. A place I hope to visit one day! 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thank you – hope you get there!
LikeLike
wanderingcows said:
It looks absolutely delightful. And you had lovely weather !! Ha !
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Hey, I did say it rained on the way into Vernazza! But you are right; the weather was largely very good, especially for the human weather curse (that’s me). Sometimes even I get lucky! 🙂
LikeLike
restlessjo said:
Totally envious! 🙂 A place I always wanted to visit.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Well, you’re not terribly far when you’re in Portugal! 🙂 I hope you get to go someday; it really is a beautiful place.
LikeLike
restlessjo said:
Everywhere is far when we’re in Portugal because my husband is a home body with very little desire to wander. 😦 I got his share! 🙂 Classic mismatch.
LikeLiked by 1 person
darwinontherocks said:
Oh I feel nostalgic 🙂 I was there a few months ago (in March) and it was definitively quieter. The ice cream in Manarola was amazing ! and did you try the freshly squezzed lemon juice on the hiking trail ?
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Lucky you! Was the whole trail open? Unfortunately, I did not try any of the lemon juice, but I compensated by having plenty of limoncello!
LikeLike
darwinontherocks said:
No, part of the trail was close for repair. But we took an alternative route (a bit more hilly) and it was nice !
LikeLiked by 1 person
awtytravels said:
Ah, the Cinque Terre. Apart from being very nice, it reminds me of a school trip we did when we were 16, spending 3 days over there. With hindsight, it wasn’t much at that time – kids these days go to Rome, Paris, Stockholm – but for us it was brilliant. Thanks for the good memories Lexi!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
My first thought is how lucky you were to take your school trips to the Cinque Terre! My kids got Washington, DC, if they were lucky (one of them visited St Louis – meh); I think I took a trip to an amusement park an hour away! You get all the good, close destinations in Europe!
LikeLiked by 1 person
awtytravels said:
Well, I wouldn’t mind spending a school trip in the Smithsonian in DC, watching planes (and boozing, obviously). But that’s because I’m a geek, I guess.
LikeLiked by 1 person
SnowSomewhere said:
Hey, what were the hotel prices like – do you remember if there are options elsewhere than just Monterosso?
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
I think the hotels were pretty pricey overall. We were there in 2008, and I don’t recall any really upscale options, but our mid-range place seemed pretty expensive for what it was. (We loved it – high above the sea with great views and an apartment-like room that accommodated four of us – clean but basic.) Now I’m sure some more luxury properties exist and my guess is that, in summer, these would not come cheap!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
And yes, there are options in Vernazza and some of the other towns, just not nearly as many. And not as many places to eat, etc.
LikeLiked by 1 person
SnowSomewhere said:
Thanks so much for the tips! Might be going there – not sure though if I can make it right now!
LikeLiked by 1 person
LDG luciledegodoy said:
These are stunning photos Lex and I enjoyed learning about the hike. I visited by boat and it’s a totally different experience. The hikes were suspended due to the bad weather.
You made me want to come back there and go for a hike!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
It would be so beautiful to arrive by boat in those little harbors! I’ll bet the views were incredible, with those colorful towns nestled into the green hills, fishing boats bobbling in the water in the foreground. I would love to see it from that vantage point also. Having said that, I’ve read that much of the current overcrowding has come from cruises; in the past, the only way in was hiking, or driving to the outskirts of one of the towns and walking in, and now more people are brought in each day by boat. (I’m not knocking your arrival! Just passing along what I’ve read about what’s happening there!) 🙂
LikeLike
LDG luciledegodoy said:
It is very beautiful, Lex. And you’re right about the boats. I wasn’t in one of them, so don’t worry about that. I went with Italian friends who live in Forte de Marmi. It’s terrible. Everywhere we went there were flocks of tourists. We decided to never again return there during summer.
LikeLiked by 1 person
estelea said:
Those colours are so beautiful, I love the pic of this little village nested in the mountains… A treat for the legs and for the eyes, plus you really got me with the food! I ll have to find when is the best to go, spring probably?
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thanks! Maybe late spring – before the summer crowds but still during a warm time of year so all that greenery is starting to bloom and the sea breeze feels refreshing instead of chilly!
LikeLiked by 1 person
estelea said:
Ok, well noted. On the bucket list when we ll be living in Europe again ..
LikeLiked by 1 person
Mabel Kwong said:
Looks like a brilliant few hiking days with great weather all round. I think I would like Monterosso al Mare the best because not only does it have great views, I am a big fan of anchovies, pizza and especially pesto 😀
Up close and personal with individual homes and mother nature. What a well-rounded kind of trip. Interesting to hear the number of hikers are limited around Sentiero Azzurro. Fair enough if the government wants to preserve the land, and rightfully so so that the future generations can enjoy it. That might also mean less crowds and you can enjoy the place more – you just have to wait for your turn 😀
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thanks for visiting, Mabel! Well-rounded is exactly what this little side trip was – lots of great food and drink, many opportunities for activity, and stunning scenery. Who could ask for more?! (I guess that’s also exactly why it has become a bit overrun; the most captivating spots sometimes become victims of their own beauty.)
LikeLiked by 1 person
Jane Lurie said:
Gorgeous images, Lex! This is on my list… great post.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thanks! I hope you can get there; it’s a wonderful, relaxing place.
LikeLike
Kamila Pala said:
Beautiful place in Italy 🙂 i like it so much! Nice set of photos! Bye. Kamila
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thank you for reading and for your comments! Have you been to the Cinque Terre? That coast is so beautiful overall – I feel lucky to have spent time on part of it.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Kamila Pala said:
Oh yes, I have been there a couple years ago – so cute -but I have to say the Portofino is also cool 🙂 !
LikeLiked by 1 person
Kate said:
Gorgeous photos! We just tried to take a day trip to Cinque Terre a few weeks ago–the trains were on strike which caused us to rework a bit, and we only saw Monterosso. Still worth it–need a redo, though! Glad you guys had fun!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thanks! And I’m sorry you were thwarted in your attempt to see more of this area; it really is especially beautiful. BUT … you are in Slovenia, which rivals anything I’ve seen in much of the world, so you will not be lacking natural beauty or charming city life (if you are hitting Ljubljana). Thanks for the blog visit and keep enjoying your trip!
LikeLike
Inger said:
Can’t believe I haven’t heard about Vernazza before – it s gorgeous!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
It’s historically been kind of a less-famous Italian coast destination, but that is changing, as the numbers of visitors shows. The Amalfi coast gets all the press, but this little enclave of towns is just as gorgeous and still relatively less crowded. You should check it out someday!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lisadorenfest said:
I just adore those colorful buildings winding their way up the mountains overlooking the sea. While my partner hails from Italy, but sadly, I have never been there. Pictures like these that make it a must see destination.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Well, when you are done with all your exotic sea travel, you will have to go do a basic old Italian holiday! Where does your circumnavigation end up anyway? This could be a great place to get your land legs back!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lisadorenfest said:
Officially the circumnavigation would end in Amsterdam but it is likely that I would overshoot that and head around the Cape of Good Hope and across the Atlantic again. I sailed from The Netherlands to The Caribbean on a series of different boats. I started with Amandla in Isla Mujeres, Mexico. If I can convince The Captain to take Amandla back there, I would have a full circumnavigation on a single boat. I look forward to an Italian Holiday…if the waters were safer, I’d prefer to sail through the Suez Canal to the Med than around Africa, but right now that is not an option.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Wow – you are still going to be sailing for a LONG time! I had no idea. Hope the Amandla voyage can continue! I say leave the boat in Amsterdam for a few weeks/months and scoot down to Italy for a break and then finish. (I’m really good at planning everyone else’s time – haha.)
LikeLiked by 1 person
darshanakoirala said:
Simply beautiful! This is definetly a place I want to go in the near future. Great post!
– Glimpsesofdaworld.wordpress.com
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Thank you very much! I hope you can go – it really is a stunning and friendly place.
LikeLike
anywherewithbrooke said:
This is by far my favorite post of your blog! I think I am biased though, because Cinque Terre was supposed to be a destination of mine this past summer, but my travel partner had some family issues and had to leave Europe! Also, thank you for the advice on where to stay, because if I were to be traveling on a budget I do believe it would make sense to stay in the place where “supply” is just as high as the “demand” as far as places to stay! I am literally book marking this post on my computer, it is the most helpful one I have ever read about visiting Cinque Terre! Thank you! Hopefully you will see one about the place on my travel blog, soon!
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
Oh, what a bummer that you missed this little treasure! But I’m sure you will get there someday, and I look forward to reading about it. It is so picturesque and it has that perfect combo of opportunities for activity plus good food – always a winner in my book!
LikeLiked by 1 person
anywherewithbrooke said:
Well it’s for sure on my list for next summer- as number 1. I have to experience it!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Bespoke Traveler said:
Will happily just enjoy this trek through your photos.
LikeLiked by 1 person
lexklein said:
It’s such a bummer that big chunks of the trail remain closed these days. So glad I got to do it when I did.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Bespoke Traveler said:
So many destinations are having to limit the number of visitors in order to not destroy the places. Too many of any species in a limited area is destructive. 😞
LikeLiked by 1 person