Tags
Church on Spilled Blood, Hermitage, independent travel, Nevsky Prospekt, Pushkin, Russia, St. Petersburg, Tsarskoye Selo
This question, and its individual parts, was posed to me multiple times in the months preceding my trip to Russia a few weeks ago. When I first made the plans, I picked this destination for my January break, in part, because my mental picture of Russia has always included snow swirling on railroad tracks, border guards in fur hats, vast empty parks with snowy trees, and overheated rooms reeking of boiled cabbage! And that’s exactly what we got!
As the trip grew closer, my friends’ and family’s concerns proliferated. I am a fiercely independent traveler; I like a few guided tours here and there to learn more, but I like to be free also – to arrange my own transportation and lodging, to roam the streets, and to find things to do that feel a little more local. At this particular time, less intrepid souls fussed with me about Mr. Putin’s recent aggression, economic desperation that might boost crime against tourists with cameras, jewelry, and dollars, and even international sanctions that could affect food supplies. Stay in your hotel for dinner, I was advised, and certainly don’t walk around after dark. (Given that “after dark” started at 4 pm, that one was a no-go right there!)
That was a long introduction to say that I succeeded in doing this trip my way at my time; Russia in January was magical, and I would not have changed a thing. Unlike most visitors to Russia, my sister and I arranged our visas ourselves, bought plane and train tickets online, booked directly with hotels, arranged a few tours with a guide we found on the internet, and made ourselves at home as much as possible, even when that meant choking down a really bad lunch one day.
Of course, we visited the main draws of St. Petersburg, our primary destination, and its environs. Our first day after arriving, we drove out of the city to Tsarskoye Selo, the imperial village in the town of Pushkin. This is the home of Catherine’s Palace, the Baroque summer residence of the Russian monarchs from Peter the Great to Nicholas II. The palace interior is fascinating in the (been-there, done-that) way of all palaces – over-the-top gilded opulence, rooms covered in jewels (in this case, amber), thrones, rich fabrics, and impossibly high ceilings.
For me, though, the highlight was the snowy park in which the lavish estate is set. The whole complex of architectural structures and gardens was nestled among frosted trees and misty lanes, with the buildings and their brightly-painted walls glowing softly like Color Splash effects in black-and-white photographs. It was a peaceful morning scene, and our walk through the frigid park is a favorite memory.
The Hermitage Museum and winter palace was, likewise, a required stop, and it did not disappoint in its majesty and mouth-dropping enormity. One could roam for days through the galleries and exhibits, but we limited our time to four hours or so. The contents are impressive (Rembrandts, Italian masters, an Elgin Marble loan, the peacock clock, etc.), but we concentrated on their backdrop – the floors, walls and ceilings of the building itself.
We made cursory stops at a number of other venerable St Petersburg sites – Peter and Paul Fortress (and the Romanov and other tsars’ tombs), the Church on Spilled Blood, St. Isaac’s Cathedral, and Uprising Square, among others – and spent a very memorable evening at the Mariinsky Theater for a ballet performance of Swan Lake.
But we also enjoyed several days of just wandering the city between tourist stops. We never once felt threatened in any way, and the mood of the city during the New Year’s/Orthodox Christmas season was not exactly festive, but positive. We never saw any other English-speaking people in our time there (other than a few hotel employees), and the Russian people were patient with us as we pointed at food items and picked like kindergartners through the rubles in our hands to pay. We walked for hours with fur hoods cinched around our faces and handwarmers in our gloves, then burst into massively overheated buildings to eat or shop.
We did a vodka tasting and ate borscht, buckwheat groats, black bread, and blini. We stood in line like the Leningrad proletariat to buy greasy little pyshki (doughnuts) and sweet milky coffee at Zhelyabova 25, a Soviet-era shop where the quarters are cramped, the napkins are square sheets of non-absorbent greasepaper, and the prices are ridiculously low. We ate a $4 lunch (for two!) at a decidedly downscale luncheonette with a cafeteria-style set-up that allowed us to point at our choices (quite poor ones, it turned out), sit at communal tables with local families, and permanently impregnate our clothing with the smell of boiled cabbage and pickled vegetables.
We walked Nevsky Prospekt, the city’s main drag for both tourists and citizens, and its offshoots until our toes froze in our boots, admiring the picturesque canals, rivers, and bridges. We lurched, stiff and frozen, along the Neva River embankments to see the carvings there, and we ventured out in a snowstorm one night to eat a delicious vegetarian dinner in a cozy below-grade restaurant with an incongruous photo booth outside.
We ended our time in Russia with a train ride to Estonia. I felt like Anna Karenina boarding the aging, utilitarian train from an icy platform in blowing snow, awkwardly leaping the 18-inch gap into the shabby car with suitcase in hand and settling into an incredibly uncomfortable seat for the 6 ½-hour ride to Tallinn. Along the way, we stopped at a number of isolated countryside stations; at one, I saw a lone babushka and her dog on a cold, dark street and shivered to think I was really, finally in the Russia of my literature-fueled dreams. The border crossings to leave Russia and enter Estonia were satisfyingly stereotypical, with gruff, fur-hatted officers taking our passports and halting our progress for a good hour, and a last-minute attempt to dump rubles in the bar car involved some hilarious miming to buy a couple of beers and some peanuts.
We found no reason to avoid going to Russia right now, even in the dead of winter, and do not understand why so few visitors make an independent foray here. The visa work is admittedly cumbersome and expensive, but once there, it is not difficult to enjoy all the country has to offer without being coddled and dragged around on group tours. Our best memories are not of the big sights, but of the small moments – pushing in line to buy a salmon and cucumber sandwich, rattling down the railroad tracks through the night, listening to Boy George and chuckling at the apt anachronism as we passed looming old Soviet government buildings in a cab, warming up on pumpkin soup and potato pancakes behind a curtained window, and on one glorious January day, seeing the sun come out and illuminate the canals and buildings of this magnificent city just for us.
LevyRector said:
What a wonderful description of one of my favourite cities – and such fantastic photos! I’m not at all surprised that you loved your winter visit – it’s my favourite time of year for Russia too, though I did also enjoy the White Nights of June and early July in St Petersburg when I had the opportunity to go there at that time of year as well.
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lexklein said:
Yes, even though I loved the winter time there, I’d love to go back in the summer, too!
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Kendra S said:
Wow! It sounds incredible. I’ve always wanted to go and despite pretty much everyone looking at me like I’m crazy, one day I’ll make it there! Your pictures make me want to contemplate a winter visit (and I’m not a winter person)!
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lexklein said:
We are birds of a feather. I have always wanted to go and everyone did look at me like I was nuts! And I am really, really not a cold weather person. I hate, loathe, and detest the cold. But I have learned the truth in the statement “there is no bad weather; there are just bad clothing choices.” I bought waterproof boots with thinsulate, a down coat with a fur hood, warm gloves, etc., and I was really OK; in fact, I was invigorated. At home, I complain, but I don’t bundle up the way I should; there, everyone dresses for the cold. Go!!
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Kendra S said:
Yep, it is all about the warm clothes – I’ve definitely learned that, living in Canada!
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Pingback: A Russian winter – More thoughts, Vicar?
LevyRector said:
Your fantastic post about this great winter city inspired me to write about my own memories of the city in a very different time and place. Thanks for helping me remember a wonderful trip.
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lexklein said:
I hope my readers will check out your post also! It’s awesome and a great historical angle on this fascinating city and country.
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LevyRector said:
Thanks for reading and commenting. I do hope you get to visit Moscow sometime as well.
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momtheobscure said:
If you can handle the cold why not? I wouldnt go just because I cant stand the cold. But it looks lovely and just what I pictured it should look like. We went to moscow this summer but did not stay long enough because my husband was worried about the Ukraine. I so want to go to St. Petersburg maybe for the white nights as others have mentioned. We did not do any tours but we did eat at the hotel every night but only because we had our 7 year old with us and their were lots of kids but none at dinner after 5!
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lexklein said:
I’d love to visit Moscow someday also … maybe next time I’ll do both cities in the summertime!
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momtheobscure said:
There is a train from Moscow to St. Petersburg so you can definitely do it.
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momtheobscure said:
I sent this to my husband so he can know what we missed! Thanks
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perelincolors said:
Your writing really made me wish I could have been in the queue for the salmon and cucumber sandwich too. And I am sure if I had, I would have written a whole post just about that sandwich!
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lexklein said:
Ha – that’s great! The “salted salmon” (I’d call it smoked salmon) was great and found everywhere. Pickled cucumbers were a tasty side dish for many meals and also for our vodka tasting!
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Rob Weir said:
A very wide range of excellent photos
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lexklein said:
Thank you! I was just marveling over your top photos of 2014! Now those are excellent photos – mine pale in comparison!
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Tina Schell said:
Well good for you for following through, and for sharing your trip with us. My favorite shot was the row of black, leafless trees, but I enjoyed the entire post. Some of it felt VERY Dr. Zhivago!!!
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lexklein said:
Thank you! Yes, I felt like I was in several different Russian novels and movies throughout my time there!
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thirdeyemom said:
Wow this looks fabulous! Living in Minnesota, I wonder how similar in temp it is in Russia versus here in the winter. I think going to Russia in the winter would be fantastic! It is how I always picture Russia in my head and your photos are amazing!!! I would love to go someday!
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lexklein said:
I would guess the temperatures are pretty similar. The funny thing was that it was colder at home in Chicago than it was in Russia the week I was there! But it was still plenty cold there – about 10-15 F most days.
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thirdeyemom said:
I would fit right in. I bet winter is fantastic there though. Can’t wait for more photos!
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estelea said:
Your post is fantastic, and your pictures stunning. When I started reading, I already felt my noise freezing, and man I hate cold, but not only I reached the last line with a big smile.. but also you made me want to visit! It looks beautiful, so rich culturally and historically. Well done! THanks for sharing, was worth braving the cold 🙂
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estelea said:
(but where is the caviar? I expected it by the bottle of vodka!)
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lexklein said:
Thanks for your kind comments! I hate the cold, too, but this was one place where the cold actually enhanced the experience! For some reason, we never did get caviar! We ate a bunch of other Russian and Nordic foods, but this caviar omission was a big mistake! 🙂 (They served tart little pickles with the vodka tasting, and it was a perfect accompaniment.)
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estelea said:
OK then, looks yummi enough, you are forgiven 😉 Cheers from the warm Pacific!
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sweetk8 said:
Hello! I revisited this article because I’m planning a visit to SPB with MY sister… but we’ll be going in July/Aug. We’re in the early stages and I’m the lead on arrangements since I’m closer to many of the points of travel. We’ve considered the St. Pete Line Ferry since the visa is included… but I’m much more the train and travel as I go sort of person and would prefer more flexibility than the ferry usually entails.
I’d love to hear more about specific sources, hotels and approximations to points of interest. Did you drive yourself around or use public transport? What would you have done differently? Any other points or travel advice are welcome. Thanks.
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lexklein said:
Responding soon via email! Movers are packing and loading my house contents today and tomorrow, but my evening(s) should be free enough to send something off very soon. You’re going to love SPB!
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lexklein said:
Kate – I thought I had your address right, but it bounced. Can you send it to onefootoutthedoorblog@gmail.com?
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